Churen Himal Central | 1969 WNW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Churen Himal Central in 1969 via WNW Ridge, led by Paolo Consiglio. Summit reached on 13th November 1969. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2499
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHUR69301
Peak ID CHUR
Year 1969
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 WNW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Paolo Consiglio
Sponsor Italian Academic Expedition 1969
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Dhorpatan-Budzunge Bara La->Churen Himal (BC)
Basecamp Date 1969-10-15
Summit Date 1969-11-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1969-11-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to high winds
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/10,4050m),C1(17/10,4750m),C2(20/10,5150m),C3(23/10,5550m),C4(30/10,6000m),C5(12/11,6350m),xxx(13/11,6500m)
Route Notes Consiglio - 27 Nov 69 Bellini and Franzina in KTM, others in Pokhara. In Dhorpatan 5 Sherpas and 600 kg baggage. Rocky ridge very very difficult and strong wind - West Ridge - on other side helped snow and glacier - reached 6500m by Puissi and Gross. Slept C5 at 6350m wth 2 others ready to establish C6; wind very strong and 1 tent C1 blown away and 3 tents broken in C1, C2 and C5 on 13-14 Nov. 10 Nov snow all day 11 Nov snow all day but 11-12 strong wind 12 no closed but strong wind 12 put C5 at 6350m 13 wind all day and night 13 + Puissi and Gross at 6500m 14 Nov all returned because ridge impossible to climb; all in base on Nov 16; always strong wind from 11th. Even without wind, difficulties of ridge. 9 Nov night - snow, not cold = avalanche danger. All other members arrive KTM by RNAC 27 Nov except Marti and Alleto. Letter from Giacomelli - 17 Oct We reached the day before yesterday. The base camp and one team has actually placed today the first advance camp. So far so good, but Churen Himal is certainly not an easy mountain. Letter from Giacomelli Departure from Pokhara on the 10th of October. Arrival and establishment of Base Camp at the head of the Gustang Khola on the morning of the 15th October. The trekking has been uneventful but for the crossing of the Gurja Khani Pass which was done under a heavy snowstorm with considerable difficulties for the coolies. On the 17th one team has established the first high camp (15,600 ft) on the southwest side of the mountain without difficulties which start immediately above the first camp with a belt of steep rock and some danger of the icefall. The weather has been so far fine. The base camp of the Japanese expedition to Gurja Himal is very close to ours and all the members (7) but the leader are at present at the first high camp and at the temporary second high camp so far established at roughly 16,000 ft.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446288
Year 1969
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) wnw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paolo Consiglio M 1927 Italy Leader Rome, Italy Architect Details Other expeditions
Vincenzo Monti M - Italy Climber Rome, Italy Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Franco Alletto M 1927 Italy Climber Italy Architect Details Other expeditions
Sergio Bellini M 1936 Italy Climber Carate Brianza, Milano, Italy Chemist Details Other expeditions
Carlo Claus M 1926 Italy Climber Cles, Trento, Italy Plumbing contractor Details Other expeditions
Claudio Dal Bosco M 1934 Italy Climber Montorio Veronese, Verona, Italy Tapestry-maker Details Other expeditions
Pier Giorgio Franzina M 1934 Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy School master Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Giacomelli M 1930 Italy Climber New Delhi, India Counsellor Italian Embassy, New Delhi Details Other expeditions
Aldo Gross M 1933 Italy Climber Pozza di Fassa, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ignazio Piussi M 1935 Italy Climber Pozzale di Cadore, Belluno, Italy Clerk in electricity dept Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHUR69301 AAJ - - - 44:182 (1970) -
CHUR69301 AJ - - - 75:196 (1970) -
CHUR69301 HJ Consiglio, Paolo Churen Himal, 1969 - Italian Himalayan Expedition - 31:163-169 (1971) -
CHUR69301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197018202/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal - - -
CHUR69301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/17/churen-himal-1969/ - - -
CHUR69301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970_files/AJ%201970%20196-202%20Nepal.pdf - - -