Churen Himal West | 1983 SW Face Spur-S Ridge of W Smt

A W Germany expedition to Churen Himal West in 1983 via SW Face Spur-S Ridge of W Smt, led by Gustav Harder. Summit reached on 10th October 1983. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 132
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHRW83301
Peak ID CHRW
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face Spur-S Ridge of W Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Gustav Harder
Sponsor DAV (German Alpine Club) Training Exp 1983 to Churen Himal
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-24
Summit Date 1983-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6850m due to fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 6850
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,4200m),C1(27/09,4750m),C2(29/09,5400m),C3(01/10,5800m),xxx(10/10,6850m)
Route Notes BC in Kaphe Khola little north of point 4100m on Dhaulagiri Himal map. On 10th Oct weather got bad and next couple of days also those who went to high point retreated to C3 and could not go down further because storm (wind and snow); also in C3 were Elsner, Hoess, Jans and Kruis because it was the day for 2 teams to change over the lead. S Ridge at beginning not possible - rock too loose. Planned to make C4 at c7000m on S Ridge. Most difficult parts: C1 to C2 (rock ridge + 100m rock section) and above C3 steep mixed rotten rock and ice all way to ridge. C3 (avalanche started only 15m above C3). Jans was digging snow cave to replace tent and he was carried 200m down and went up and started digging for others. Those who survived were Elsner, Fichter, Hoess, Kruis and Schmidt. Only 2nd degree frostbite for Elsner, Fichter, Jans, Hoess; no other accidents. Stelfox, et al, British (Irish) - 19 & 20 May 1984 Germans in autumn 1983 used same route in much of their climb as Irish this spring. Irish found their camps, fixed ropes and two bodies 10m apart, one in a sleeping bag and other sitting up. Only route difference appears to have been between Irish ABC and C1. Route was up a spur on SW Face to South Ridge for West Peak. 2 dead in avalanche; 5 came back by helicopter.
Accidents Fatal avalanche; 2nd degree frostbite for 4 members (no other incidents)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451381
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face spur-s ridge of w smt

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dieter Elsner M 1954 W Germany Climber Kaufbeuren, Bavaria, W Germany Teacher, physical education and geography Details Other expeditions
Walter Fichter M 1961 W Germany Climber Leonberg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Student, mechanical engineering Details Other expeditions
Hans Peter Hamm M 1959 W Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Education and biology student Details Other expeditions
Gustav Harder M 1948 W Germany Leader Munich, Bavaria, W Germany University teacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Christoph Hawlitschek M 1961 W Germany Climber Neubiberg, Bavaria, W Germany Military service Details Other expeditions
Thomas Hoess M 1958 W Germany Climber Wangen im Allgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Salesman, sporting goods shop Details Other expeditions
Hans-Peter Huppert M 1957 W Germany Climber Blieskastel, W Germany Geography student Details Other expeditions
Peter Huettner M 1963 W Germany Climber Gundelsheim, Bavaria, W Germany Military service Details Other expeditions
Herbert Jans M 1959 W Germany Climber Weingarten, Thuringia, W Germany Student of information processing Details Other expeditions
Christoph Kruis M 1961 W Germany Climber Amberg, Bavaria, W Germany Medical student Details Other expeditions
Axel Mess M 1959 W Germany Climber Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein, W Germany Economics student Details Other expeditions
Josef Neiderauer M 1957 W Germany Exp Doctor Surheim, Bavaria, W Germany Medical student Details Other expeditions
Uwe Schmidt M 1960 W Germany Climber Neuravensburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Herbert Tschochner M 1957 W Germany Climber Landshut, Bavaria, W Germany Postgraduate student in biology Details Other expeditions
Rainer Winkelmann M 1963 W Germany Climber Muenster, North Rhine-Westphalia, W Germany Economics student Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHRW83301 AAJ - - - 58:262 (1984) -
CHRW83301 MM - - - 96:12 (Mar 1984) -
CHRW83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198426202/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal-Tragedy - - -