Churen Himal West | 1978 S Ridge-W Smt
A Japan expedition to Churen Himal West in 1978 via S Ridge-W Smt, led by Yasuo Abe. Summit reached on 23rd April 1978. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2137 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHRW78101 |
| Peak ID | CHRW |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge-W Smt |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Yasuo Abe |
| Sponsor | Chushin Branch of Nagano Mountaineering Association |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Kaphe Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-03-28 |
| Summit Date | 1978-04-23 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 26 |
| Total Days | 37 |
| Termination Date | 1978-05-04 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 5900m due to deep snow and member illness |
| High Point (m) | 5900 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/03,4250m),C1,C2,C3(5300m),xxx(23/04,5900m) |
| Route Notes | Kobayashi, Deputy Leader - 1 May 78 C3 5300m Other members a little altitude sickness Route finished to 5900m on 23 April (C4 6100m would have been) Then gave up climbing 25 April because 1 member ill and too much snow; on 23 also much snow (about 1 meter). Kozima sick 20 April in C3 right eye All others Ok Leave BC 4 May and reach KTM about 20 May South Ridge route - very difficult SR Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 78 Abandoned 26 April bad weather and rough route; could not climb above C3 because of weather. All well except 1 member sick in eye Helicopter sent for him? SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 April 78 BC at 4250m in Kaphe Khola 28 March Leader Abe has pneumonia and is returning to KTM; deputy leader Kobayashi taking over leadership. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 28 March 78 Forced to stop all activities because of snow (report dated 17 March). All at Gurjikhani village except leader, who is suffering from bronchitis and left party for 2 weeks to recover 2 days' walk away. Kobayashi - 16 Feb 78 South Ridge to West Peak Approach, via Kaphe Khola to South Ridge 6 now in KTM 7 arrive 20th 13 including 2 nurses at BC. Leave KTM 25th by bus, leave Pokhara 28th. Caravan 2 weeks to BC at 4200m 5 or 6 camps above BC with highest about 7000m Summit about end April 3 HA Sherpas including Lobsang Tsering = sirdar No oxygen for climbing |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449380 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge-w smt |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yasuo Abe | M | 1938 | Japan | Leader | Hitachi, Ibaraki, Japan | Physician, pediatrcian | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Kobayashi | M | 1941 | Japan | Vice Leader | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | President, construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Takayuki Momose | M | 1946 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Bookkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Makoto Yosimura | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Kiso, Fukushima, Japan | Salesman of motor cars | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsunori Sonehara | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Toyoshima, Nagano, Japan | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Sakae Nagasawa | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Instructor at Matsumoto Dental University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Ogasawara | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Azusagawa, Japan | Company staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Tosihiko Itoh | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Company staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuji Kozima | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Technician for air-conditioners | Details Other expeditions |
| Yosiyasu Maruyama | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Omachi, Nagano, Japan | Technician in electric appliances Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Hirosi Kubosawa | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Construction company technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyoshi Kohara | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | Omachi, Nagano, Japan | Physician, President of Toyoshina Health Center | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroko Moriwaki | F | 1943 | Japan | Exp Nurse | - | Health nurse, Iida Health Center | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomoko Sekiya | F | 1949 | Japan | Exp Nurse | Sakai-shi, Japan | Health nurse, Hokushin General Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Amar Singh Tendal | M | - | Nepal | Porter | Myagdi district | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lobsang Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHRW78101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:272-273 (1979) | - |
| CHRW78101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:147 (1979) | - |
| CHRW78101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:47 (1979) | - |
| CHRW78101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927205/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal | - | - | - |