Churen Himal West | 1974 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Churen Himal West in 1974 via W Ridge, led by Hiroaki Yamada. Summit reached on 14th May 1974. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2322
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHRW74101
Peak ID CHRW
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroaki Yamada
Sponsor Meihou Mountaineering Society Himalayan Expedition 1974
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-04-06
Summit Date 1974-05-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6830m after member became sick (AMS) at C4
High Point (m) 6830
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2050
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04),C1(08/04,4700m),C2(20/04,5500m),C3(02/05,6150m),C4(12/05,6650m),xxx(6830m)
Route Notes Yamada - 3 June 74 4 members were sick: 1 in lungs from altitude, 2 liver and 1 very tired. Mori and Othuka reached 6830m on 14 May, but Mori because sick at this altitude and therefore only Yamada and Othuka in C4 and well. Then stopped climbing 15 May. West Ridge route very difficult: all rock C2-C3 all rock ridge: new route - left side of SW Face-West Ridge. 600m fixed rope between C2 and C3. C1 also rock: rock face and easy glacier and here 550m fixed rope; above C3 to C4 narrow snow ridge 500m rope; above C4 more fixed rope 200m and on glacier 200m; total 2050m fixed rope. Possible reach summit by West Ridge with 8-10 members with 4-5 strong. One more camp necessary with (1000m) more fixed rope - camp about 7000m. No accident, no yeti. Leave Nepal 7 May Churen Abandoned 16 May due to bad weather and sickness of 4 members. Established C4 at 6650m 12 May. 2 members reached 6830m towards C5. Suganumo - 21 May 74 Japanese embassy understands Churen Himal abandoned about one week ago; reached C4. Reason not known. Are on way to KTM. MP Khanal, MFA - 4 April 74 LO reports bad weather has held up expedition at Gurjagaon; 8 days of continuous snow; still on way to base camp on 29 March. 8 Feb 74 22 Feb leader + 3 members arrive 2 here now and today Go to Pokhara 28 Feb West Ridge, same route 1969 and 1971, Yamada - 26 Feb 74 28 Feb fly to Pokhara. Caravan 15 March (waiting for snow go off pass on) to 1 April at BC. Base camp 4100m in Kaphe Khola for assault on West Peak. 1962 Japanese - north side? 1970 Koreans - east side 1969 Italians - West Ridge 1970 Japanese - West Ridge 1971 Japanese - West Ridge 1974 Japanese - West Ridge Present expedition: 6 camps, C6 6900m on West Ridge Summit attack 10-20 March Maybe success; difficult route very steep C3 6000m on col between Putha Hiunchuli and Churen = adv camp. thence C4, C5 and C6 on West Ridge. Sherpas: 1 sirdar Ang Temba and 5 + 1 cook and 2 mailrunner and 1 kitchen boy Hiroaki Yamada Leave KTM 28 Feb Charter flight to Pokhara All members arrive today 22 Feb
Accidents 4 member were sick: 1 in lungs from altitude, 2 liver and 1 very tired
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447936
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroaki Yamada M 1940 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Akihiko Mori M 1945 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nala M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Masaki Matsumoto M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Masathugu Sato M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Design engineer Details Other expeditions
Iwao Othuka M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHRW74101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 49:199 (1975) -
CHRW74101 HJ Yamada, Hiroaki Churen Himal, 1974 - 34:152-154 (1974-75) -
CHRW74101 IWA - - - 42:27-28 (1975) -
CHRW74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519903/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal - - -
CHRW74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/34/33/churen-himal-1974/ - - -