Churen Himal East | 1980 SE Ridge-E Smt

A Italy expedition to Churen Himal East in 1980 via SE Ridge-E Smt, led by Oliviero Frachey. Summit reached on 26th October 1980. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1897
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHRE80301
Peak ID CHRE
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge-E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Oliviero Frachey
Sponsor Churen Himal 1980 - Italian Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-10-13
Summit Date 1980-10-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to cold weather
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/10,4150m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(17/10,5350m),C3(19/10,6050m),C4(21/10,6450m),xxx(26/10,7000m)
Route Notes Frachey - 6 Nov 80 Too much snow and cold. After C4 decided very cold and all down. Then summit attempt by Luciano Colli and Favre on 26 Oct. Reached 7000-7050m, then a little frostbite from cold and go to C4 and next day to C2. Want to send up another team to make C5, but permit expired 31 Oct and now too late; was -37 degree C temperature. 4 members frostbite but not serious - no accidents. BC - 4150m - 13 Oct C1 - 4800m - 15 Oct C2 - 5350m - 17 Oct C3 - 6050m - 19 Oct C4 - 6450m - 21 Oct Route was SE Ridge to East Peak (Japanese route); this route quicker than West Ridge originally planned to climb. Frachey via Simonetti - 30 Sept 80 Route = West Ridge, same as 1969 Italian If conditions not good, then will try Central Peak from southwest. Leave 2 Oct, fly to Pokhara and 3 Oct leave Pokhara for 15 days to BC. 20 days to try to climb peak and acclimatization. BC above 4500m, 3 days north of Gurjikhani. 5 camps if climb West Ridge; if Central Peak, don't know how many camps. 6 Sherpas above BC Oxygen medical only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450299
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge-e smt

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marisa Bechaz F 1955 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Guido Becquet M 1950 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Surveyor and cine-photographer Details Other expeditions
Monica Borghese F 1959 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Teacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Colli M 1925 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Luciano Colli M 1948 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide, ski instructor & instructor of alpine guides Details Other expeditions
Adriano Favre M 1956 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Alfredo Favre M 1950 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Oliviero Frachey M 1928 Italy Leader Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Battista Obert M 1954 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marino Obert M 1960 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Mario Obert M 1946 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ruggero Obert M 1952 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide & instructor of guides Details Other expeditions
Silvio Obert M 1934 Italy Climber Champoluc, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Gabriele Simonetti M 1956 Italy Climber Muzzano, Vercelli, Italy Mountain photographer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHRE80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:264 (1981) -
CHRE80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126402/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal-Attempt - - -