Churen Himal East | 1980 SE Ridge-E Smt
A Italy expedition to Churen Himal East in 1980 via SE Ridge-E Smt, led by Oliviero Frachey. Summit reached on 26th October 1980. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1897 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHRE80301 |
| Peak ID | CHRE |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge-E Smt |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Oliviero Frachey |
| Sponsor | Churen Himal 1980 - Italian Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-10-13 |
| Summit Date | 1980-10-26 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 13 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7000m due to cold weather |
| High Point (m) | 7000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(13/10,4150m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(17/10,5350m),C3(19/10,6050m),C4(21/10,6450m),xxx(26/10,7000m) |
| Route Notes | Frachey - 6 Nov 80 Too much snow and cold. After C4 decided very cold and all down. Then summit attempt by Luciano Colli and Favre on 26 Oct. Reached 7000-7050m, then a little frostbite from cold and go to C4 and next day to C2. Want to send up another team to make C5, but permit expired 31 Oct and now too late; was -37 degree C temperature. 4 members frostbite but not serious - no accidents. BC - 4150m - 13 Oct C1 - 4800m - 15 Oct C2 - 5350m - 17 Oct C3 - 6050m - 19 Oct C4 - 6450m - 21 Oct Route was SE Ridge to East Peak (Japanese route); this route quicker than West Ridge originally planned to climb. Frachey via Simonetti - 30 Sept 80 Route = West Ridge, same as 1969 Italian If conditions not good, then will try Central Peak from southwest. Leave 2 Oct, fly to Pokhara and 3 Oct leave Pokhara for 15 days to BC. 20 days to try to climb peak and acclimatization. BC above 4500m, 3 days north of Gurjikhani. 5 camps if climb West Ridge; if Central Peak, don't know how many camps. 6 Sherpas above BC Oxygen medical only |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450299 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge-e smt |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marisa Bechaz | F | 1955 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Guido Becquet | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Surveyor and cine-photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Monica Borghese | F | 1959 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Teacher of physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Giorgio Colli | M | 1925 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Luciano Colli | M | 1948 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide, ski instructor & instructor of alpine guides | Details Other expeditions |
| Adriano Favre | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide trainee | Details Other expeditions |
| Alfredo Favre | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Oliviero Frachey | M | 1928 | Italy | Leader | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Giovanni Battista Obert | M | 1954 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marino Obert | M | 1960 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide trainee | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Obert | M | 1946 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ruggero Obert | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide & instructor of guides | Details Other expeditions |
| Silvio Obert | M | 1934 | Italy | Climber | Champoluc, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide trainee | Details Other expeditions |
| Gabriele Simonetti | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Muzzano, Vercelli, Italy | Mountain photographer | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHRE80301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:264 (1981) | - |
| CHRE80301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126402/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal-Attempt | - | - | - |