Churen Himal East | 1971 S side-S Ridge (to E Peak) (to 7250m)

A Japan expedition to Churen Himal East in 1971 via S side-S Ridge (to E Peak) (to 7250m), led by Makoto Takahashi. Summit reached on 28th May 1971. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3263
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHRE71101
Peak ID CHRE
Year 1971
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S side-S Ridge (to E Peak) (to 7250m)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Makoto Takahashi
Sponsor Tokyo University Ski Alpine Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Muni->Budsunge La->Gurjakhani
Basecamp Date 1971-04-08
Summit Date 1971-05-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7250m due to difficult ridge
High Point (m) 7250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Churen Himal West (CHRW-711-01)
Campsites BC(08/04,4100m),EastC1(12/04,4700m),EastC2(24/04,5300m),EastC3(30/04,5700m),EastC4,EastC5(13/05,6600m),xxx(28/05,7250m)
Route Notes Letter from Mahato Takahashi Since my letter of May 10th was sent, the weather has been unstable, possibly due to some effect of premonsoon season. East Camp 5 was established at 6600m on May 13th, but heavy snowfall prevented attack to East peak of Churen Himal until May 28th. On May 28th, K. Ideta and M. Kishi left Camp 5 to attack East peak summit, and they reached at the altitude of 7250m (summit 7351m) but the final snow ridge to summit is too narrow to climb in one day, and they returned back to Camp 5. On May 29th the weather was bad and they abandoned the attempt of second attack finally, considering the shortage of time and food and members physical conditions. In West ridge party the route making is more difficult. West Camp 4 was established at 6350m (West Ridge) on May 16th; and C5 was established at 6600m on May 23rd by Y. Yoshioka, Ishizuka, M. Aruji and Gyaltsen. The ridge is very narrow and steep and it consists of mix of rock and snow. Since then the attempt to extend the route to west peak summit had been continued until May 28th, but the highest altitude reached was 6900m. On May 29th our final decision to abandon our climbing activities was made considering limit of food storage, members and Sherpa's physical conditions and arrival of monsoon. Although it is pity that we cannot reach at summits, we feel happy as we did our best and all members and Sherpas returned back to BC without any accident. We will leave BC on June 5th, and will go back to KTM before 20th of June. Letter from Makato Takahasi - May 10 Since we have established Base Camp on April 8, Camp 1 or 3 were established on both east and west routes. East Camp 3 was established on April 30 by Mr. K. Ideta and Ang Tendie, and its altitude is about 5700m. East Camp 3 is situated on the same as that of Shizuoka University party's camp 3. Our east party consists of three members (K. Ideta, T. Watanabe and M. Kishii, one Sherpa (Ang Tendie) and two local porters (Pemba Norbu and Dawa Norbu). Now they are going to establish Camp 4. The East party is originally supporting party to west party, but considering some delay in route making and carrying up foods and equipments in west party, the east party will probably attack East peak of Churen Himal first. While the progress of the east party is as scheduled, the schedule of west party is several days delayed due to difficult route making, but Camp 3 was established on west ridge on May 5, and its altitude is 6150m. K. Kano, Y. Yoshioka, Y. Ishizuka, M. Aruji and Gyaltsen worked to make route to C3 and now they started route making C4. We are going to establish C4 and C5, and we will attack the summit late in May. Letter from Makahota Takahashi - May 24, 1971 I would like to inform you some new progress in our expedition. East Camp 4 is established on May 10 and its altitude is 6300m. East party will start route making to Camp 5. I expect there is essentially no difficulty in this route. In west party, Camp 3 was established on May 5, as reported and now route making ot Camp 4 on west ridge was started about 2 days ago and some members arrived at the place of 6500m, but the position of Camp 4 is not yet decided. Yashioka - Feb 20, 1971 Same route as Italian and down on east side.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446851
Year 1971
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s side-s ridge (to e peak) (to 7250m)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Makoto Takahashi M - Japan Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Katsuhiko Kano M 1942 Japan Climbing Leader (W Peak) Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shoji Seki M 1936 Japan Exp Doctor Ota, Gunma, Japan Physician on staff Sammaibashi Hospital in Ota Details Other expeditions
Osamu Matsuda M - Japan Climber (W Peak) - - Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiko Yoshioka M - Japan Climber (W Peak) - - Details Other expeditions
Kosei Ideta M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Makoto Aruji M - Japan Climber (W Peak) - - Details Other expeditions
Takane Watanabe M 1947 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Takatsu, Japan Graduate student at Tokyo University Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Ishizuka M - Japan Climber (W Peak) - - Details Other expeditions
Motoo Kishi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Ishii M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHRE71101 AAJ - - - 46:187 (1972) -
CHRE71101 HJ Takahashi, Makoto & Kano, Katsuhiko Churen Himal, 1971 - 31:174-180 (1971) -
CHRE71101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218701/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal - - -
CHRE71101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/19/churen-himal-1971/ - - -