Cho Oyu | 1998 NW side
A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1998 via NW side, led by Robert Sloezen. Summit reached on 28th September 1998. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 3125 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHOY98314 |
| Peak ID | CHOY |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NW side |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Robert Sloezen |
| Sponsor | International Mountain Guides (IMG) American Cho Oyu Expedition 1998 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 316 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Canada, Norway |
| Approach | KTM->Tingri->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-09-01 |
| Summit Date | 1998-09-28 |
| Summit Time | 1115 |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 34 |
| Termination Date | 1998-10-05 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8188 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(09/09,5900m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09) |
| Route Notes | On 28th summit party was Robinson, Ousland, Macdonald, Arnette. Latter 2 turned back at about 8100m; Arnette tired and feet cold and MacDonald as guide went with him and lost her chance for summit. No more summit attempts because snow too deep as weather had changed. On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen, Jason Dittmer, Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang and Lakpa Rita turned back below C3 due to deep snow and avalanche conditions. The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had turned back from below C2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry vision (Henry). Arnette and Ousland arrived at BC 8 Sept and ABC 10 Sept. Their late arrival meant MacDonald had to go down to meet them and stay with them for rest of climb and leader lost his assistant at his side. MacDonald now does not want to climb again in Himalaya after having helped Swiss independent climbers, Alexander Jaggi, on same permit. Too many deaths starting with Michael Reinberger on Everest and including many more. Mooroka and Jaggi = independent team above ABC. |
| Accidents | Smith ill (altitude?); Hamlin blood pressure problem |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Great Escapes Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2456863 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | nw side |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan Duane Arnette | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Grand-Lancy, Geneva, Switzerland | Manager of computer maker's products-supports office | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael (Mike) DeMartino | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Guilford, Connecticut | Construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Jason Dittmer | M | 1971 | USA | Climber | Lander, Wyoming | Outdoor leadership instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry M. Hamlin | M | 1930 | USA | Climber | Rochester, New York | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert (Bob) LaRoche | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Scottsdale, Arizona | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Heather MacDonald | F | 1970 | USA | Deputy Leader | Ashford, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Borge Ousland | M | 1962 | Norway | Climber | Oslo, Norway | Polar explorer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jethro Robinson | M | 1960 | USA | Climber | Ashford, Washington | Mountain | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert (Bob) Sloezen | M | 1953 | USA | Leader | Aspen, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Smith | M | 1967 | USA | Climber | Portland, Oregon | Racing car driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonin (Tony) Smucler | M | 1945 | Canada | Climber | Tecumseh, Ontario | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pasang Sherpa | M | 1966 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Rita Sherpa | M | 1971 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHOY98314 | HIGH | - | - | - | 198:40 (May 1999) | - |
| CHOY98314 | - | - | http://www.alanarnette.com | - | - | - |
| CHOY98314 | - | - | http://www.everestnews.com/cho.htm | - | - | - |