Cho Oyu | 1998 NW side

A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1998 via NW side, led by Robert Sloezen. Summit reached on 28th September 1998. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3125
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY98314
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Robert Sloezen
Sponsor International Mountain Guides (IMG) American Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 316
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, Norway
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1998-09-01
Summit Date 1998-09-28
Summit Time 1115
Summit Days 27
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1998-10-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(09/09,5900m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
Route Notes On 28th summit party was Robinson, Ousland, Macdonald, Arnette. Latter 2 turned back at about 8100m; Arnette tired and feet cold and MacDonald as guide went with him and lost her chance for summit. No more summit attempts because snow too deep as weather had changed. On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen, Jason Dittmer, Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang and Lakpa Rita turned back below C3 due to deep snow and avalanche conditions. The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had turned back from below C2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry vision (Henry). Arnette and Ousland arrived at BC 8 Sept and ABC 10 Sept. Their late arrival meant MacDonald had to go down to meet them and stay with them for rest of climb and leader lost his assistant at his side. MacDonald now does not want to climb again in Himalaya after having helped Swiss independent climbers, Alexander Jaggi, on same permit. Too many deaths starting with Michael Reinberger on Everest and including many more. Mooroka and Jaggi = independent team above ABC.
Accidents Smith ill (altitude?); Hamlin blood pressure problem
Achievement -
Agency Great Escapes Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456863
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alan Duane Arnette M 1956 USA Climber Grand-Lancy, Geneva, Switzerland Manager of computer maker's products-supports office Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) DeMartino M 1959 USA Climber Guilford, Connecticut Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Jason Dittmer M 1971 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Outdoor leadership instructor Details Other expeditions
Henry M. Hamlin M 1930 USA Climber Rochester, New York Businessman Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) LaRoche M 1961 USA Climber Scottsdale, Arizona Engineer Details Other expeditions
Heather MacDonald F 1970 USA Deputy Leader Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Borge Ousland M 1962 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Polar explorer Details Other expeditions
Jethro Robinson M 1960 USA Climber Ashford, Washington Mountain Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) Sloezen M 1953 USA Leader Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mark Smith M 1967 USA Climber Portland, Oregon Racing car driver Details Other expeditions
Antonin (Tony) Smucler M 1945 Canada Climber Tecumseh, Ontario Electrician Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Rita Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY98314 HIGH - - - 198:40 (May 1999) -
CHOY98314 - - http://www.alanarnette.com - - -
CHOY98314 - - http://www.everestnews.com/cho.htm - - -