Cho Oyu | 1996 W Ridge/Face from N

A Kazakhstan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1996 via W Ridge/Face from N, led by Kazbek Valiev. Summit reached on 6th October 1996. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1977
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY96319
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge/Face from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Kazbek Valiev
Sponsor Kazakhstan Cho Oyu Expedition 1996
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 229,233
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Japan
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1996-09-18
Summit Date 1996-10-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09),ABC(22/09,5650m),C1(24/09,6300m),IntCmp(02/10,6600),C2(29/09,7050m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(06,14/10)
Route Notes Wind destroyed 1 tent in C3 during night of 4 Oct. Gataoulin went to top 2nd time because he saw no reason to sit in ABC and is strong climber; even stronger wind on 14th. 4th Oct C3 by Misumi, Oya, Biamakhanov and Farafonov; Malikov helped them carry luggage and to get acclimatization and down. 1 tent destroyed but 4 others reached 7600m only on 5th and stopped by no visability and down; 6th Oct then 4 started up again, reached 8050m at first "bump." 2 did not get to top because Oya had not used oxygen and Biamakhanov his guide; Oya sat down at 8150m (30 mins from summit), Biamakhanov gave him oxygen but no reaction from Oya, who did not speak, weak pulse and almost in coma so could not breath oxygen deeply; 2 summiters returned from top and Oya carried for 5 hours to 60m from C3 and died (probably cerebral edema). Now all Japanese left expedition (2 not strong at all). Valiev went only a bit above C1 while training Japanese clients.
Accidents Hiroshi Oya (Japanese) died on 6th Oct from probably cerebral edema; Ninomiya altitude sickness; no serious Kazakhs sickness
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456094
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge/face from n

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexander Baimakhanov M 1972 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Konstantin Farafonov M 1968 Kazakhstan Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Shafkhat Gataoulin M 1968 Kazakhstan Climber Aktau, Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Kuroaka M 1961 Japan Leader of Jap. Mbrs Abiko, Chiba, Japan Travel agency staff member Details Other expeditions
Oleg Malikov M 1961 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Akira Misumi M 1929 Japan Climber Aego, Saitama, Japan Businessman (transport agency) Details Other expeditions
Yuri Moiseev M 1954 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Zenzo Ninomiya M 1939 Japan Climber Abiko, Chiba, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Oya M 1960 Japan Climber Al-Khafji, Saudi Arabia Accountant Details Other expeditions
Shinji Tamura M 1966 Japan Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev M 1952 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Tour company director Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.