Cho Oyu | 1996 W Ridge/Face from N

A Kazakhstan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1996 via W Ridge/Face from N, led by Anatoli Boukreev. Summit reached on 23rd September 1996. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1976
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY96318
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge/Face from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Anatoli Boukreev
Sponsor Independent climber on Cho Oyu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 215
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1996-09-17
Summit Date 1996-09-23
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 6
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Xixabangma (not to highest point)
Campsites BC(17/09),ChineseBC.Biv(18/09,5700m),Biv1(18/09,6400m),Biv2(19/09,7100),Smt(23/09)
Route Notes Boukreev left Chinese BC on 17th carrying all his gear at 5:00 pm (Chinese time); 1:00 pm 18th arrive at others ABC and slept in our tent. 18th afternoon left for C1, where bivouacked again. 19th to C2 and left gear there and down to 5700m same day. 20th rested. 21st afternoon up to C1 (3:00 pm Nepal time), 22nd C2 & 23rd to top; reached top at same time as Perchine, Vinogradski and Sedussov of Russian team (12:00-1:00 pm) and down to C2 and slept there; 24th to 5700m. Left ABC with Bachkirov team (28-29 Sept) to Xixabangma, where he again climbed independently as on Cho Oyu. Started up from ABC 2 hours before 4th with Bachkirov and visability very bad and stopped while Russians went on up, Next day very big avalanche and down to ABC 5th - waited for avalanche to stop. 7th morning up to C2; 8th to C3 and very strong wind and to C2; 9th to top alone (not to highest top - avalanche danger too great). Boukreev was on Kazakh team's permit and travelled with them from KTM to Chinese BC, but from there was entirely independent of them carrying his own food, tent and other equipments - independent above ABC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456081
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge/face from n

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide & instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY96318 AAJ Wylie, Linda - - 71:303 (1997) -
CHOY96318 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730302/Asia-Nepal-Nepal-and-Tibet-Himalaya-Various-Ascents - - -