Cho Oyu | 1994 W side from S

A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1994 via W side from S, led by Neal Beidleman. Summit reached on 22nd September 1994. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1365
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY94305
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W side from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Neal Beidleman
Sponsor Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kazakhstan
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-10
Summit Date 1994-09-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1994-09-22
Termination Reason 14
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5700m due to Chinese fee demand and threat from Tibetan refugees & their guide
High Point (m) 5700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,5200m),ABC(11/09,5300m),C1(11/09,5700m),xxx(22/09,5700m)
Route Notes BC at true Karshang ABC at Dzasampa C1 just before Nangpa La High point at Nangpa La. Beidleman & Boukreev pitched 2 camps on 11 Sept for clients not realizing threat from guides of people fleeing Tibet & from some of their clients expecting food & shelter from climbers. Expedition clients & Sherpas occasionally occupied 2 higher camps before danger of looting got so bad during night of 17, 18 & 19 Sept that expedition had to be abandoned. Boukreev & Celsi stayed behind hoping still to climb & Spaniards had arrived. Also had problem of some clients fighting each other. Hopes permit for this climb will be available next year for another mtn. Celsi - 1 Oct: he went to Nangpa La on 22nd, met Chinese officer who wrote price of $2000 in snow for Celsi to go ahead to climb. He thought about it but decided not, had been to Nangpa La & that enough. Boukreev stayed at BC while Celsi to Nangpa La last time. 2 Oct (by telephone) - Celsi did cross Nangpa La on invitation from Chinese officier & had lunch with him at his team's ABC north of La in very cordial atmosphere. Officer had thick wad of dollar bills he showed to Celsi to indicate term's strictly cash. Celsi met hall & Viesturs, but they could not supply & cash to him. Officer pointed to Tibetans heading towards La & laughed, not at all concerned about their departure. Celsi & Spaniards not worried about these Tibetans; felt other Americans on USA team were naive, inexperienced in Asia & overreacted, frightened by strange people & perhaps by the mountain. Rob Hall: Celsi asked Hall to cash personal cheque for $2000 - who takes cheque book climbing a mountain? Hall refused.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Above the Clouds
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455347
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w side from s

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Neal Jay Beidleman M 1959 USA Leader Aspen, Colorado Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Deputy Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Ski coach & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Richard Celsi M 1948 USA Climber Seal Beach, California Marketing professor in business administration Details Other expeditions
Henry M. Hamlin M 1930 USA Climber Rochester, New York Owner of import-export business Details Other expeditions
Robert Kalisch M 1955 USA Climber Broomfield, Colorado Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Daniel Klein M 1956 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Software engineer Details Other expeditions
Bob Perlmutter M 1957 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Ski & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Anthony Eric (Tony) Tonsing M 1959 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Structural engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY94305 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:305-306 (1995) -
CHOY94305 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530500/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-Tibet-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -