Cho Oyu | 1994 Left of Loretan rte up; W side down

A Japan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1994 via Left of Loretan rte up; W side down, led by Taeko Nagao. Summit reached on 23rd September 1994. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1367
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY94304
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 Left of Loretan rte up; W side down
Route 2 SW Face-Loretan rte up; W side down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Taeko Nagao
Sponsor Japan Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 151
Ascent 2 152
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-03
Summit Date 1994-09-23
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 20
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),Smt(23,25/09)
Route Notes BC at road ABC at normal ABC. Three climbed together on normal route to 7000m to acclimatize, then on 21 Sept from ABC in afternoon to 6000m at bottom of SW Face, made no camp here (3 hrs from ABC), rested and ate, then at 8:30 pm Yamanoi began his solo climb on new route left of Loretan route of 1990 and 2 women began their ascent of Loretan Route. Yamanoi reached 7200m on snow face with some hard ice; here he stayed 4:00-7:00 am to rest and wait for daylight to see way ahead; decided to take couloir of rock and snow to right; made 1st bivouac at 7600m at 4 pm; slept here in tent and 23 Sept 6 am again up tough very, very deep snow to summit at 4 pm (spent 2-3 hrs searching for highest summit, from which he photographed Lhotse and Everest); had reached summit ridge 12 noon. Descended normal route and at 7000m 2nd biv at 9 pm 23 Sept (at normal route C2); reached ABC 6 pm 24 Sept. "Very tired" from this "good mixed route" but had hoped to climb more direct line but it would have meant much, too much, difficult vertical rock climbing. 2 women on 21 Sept wasted one day because took wrong couloir to left (one couloir before correct one). This their first experience with night climbing and moonlight no help went to end of couloir on 22 Sept afternoon to 6700m and bived there; 23 Sept descended in day light and found correct line, biv at 7700m that night. 24 Sept deep snow traverse (to above knee) and snow needed to be packed down by knee and then trod on; so another biv at 8000m little before ridge. 25 Sept to true summit, again through very deep (chest deep for short women, 156 and 165 cm high) snow. On summit 1:30-1:45 pm & down to 7000m (normal C2) for biv and 26 Sept ABC.
Accidents Slightly frostbitten toes, Nagao and Yamanoi
Achievement New route and 1st woman on Loretan route
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455348
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) left of loretan rte up; w side down

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuka Endo F 1966 Japan Climber Hanno, Saitama, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Taeko Nagao F 1956 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Hotel employee Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpinist (in winter carried supply loads up Mt. Fuji) Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY94304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:243-244 (1995) -
CHOY94304 HIGH - - - 151:12 (Jun 1995) -
CHOY94304 IWA - - - :236 (1995) -
CHOY94304 IWA - - - :43 (1995) -
CHOY94304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199524302/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Southwest-Face - - -