Cho Oyu | 1994 W side from N (Tichy rte)

A Japan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1994 via W side from N (Tichy rte), led by Kazuo Fukase. Summit reached on 29th September 1994. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1366
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY94302
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 W side from N (Tichy rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuo Fukase
Sponsor Nihon University Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 156,159
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1994-08-30
Summit Date 1994-09-29
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/08),ABC(03/09,5450m),C1(10/09,6520m),C2(15/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7700m),Smt(29/09,04/10)
Route Notes BC at road ABC at normal site C1 same as New Zealand-US. Route to C2 already well made and rope fixed by Iman Gurung with French-Japanese. Tried 3 times to reach C2 while Sherpas made C1; finally Japanese slept there 15th Sept. 16th Sept small avalanches hit Korean C2. Japaese never again slept in C2; went down on 16th to ABC while Sherpas moved C2 to one side and on 23rd members occupied this new C2 after 4 members had also acclimatized to 7000m. Sherpas made C3 on 27th but it was first slept in on 28th. 29th 2 members and 2 Sherpas left C3 4:50 am for top. Ang Rita from French expedition had made route above C3 but Japanese fixed 3 more ropes above rock band and reached summit at 11:30 am, started down 12:25 pm very good weather and no wind. Slept in C3 and Sherpas to C2; Imato and Homada to BC 30th Sept. Next summit party of 4 members and 3 Sherpas ABC->C1 on 1 Oct; 4th Oct they left C3 7:30 am; 1 member and 1 Sherpa fast go ahead and on top at 1:10 pm for half hour; on descent met 3 members and 2 Sherpas. 1 member went down with them while 2 members and 2 Sherpas defied leadership orders and continued up although Otsuka turned back 8050m, Tamuna at 8150m. Sasahara and Lhakpa Gyalu on top at 3 pm and Lhakpa Gyalu descended much faster than Sasahara, who lost route C3. After 7 pm C3 asked to supply him with torch and tea, members not strong enough to go up but Lhakpa Gyalu up to top fixed ropes at 7850m could not find Sasahara, returned to C3. Sasahara "lost his mind" and paid no attention to time on summit day and slept that night at 7900m just above and to side of fixed rope's top, he makes small snowhole but no preparation for bivouac, on 5th Sasahara moved slightly and was spotted, but when others reached him he couldn't move. Oxygen brought up from C2 (none in C3) for him. NZ and Tibetan "Sherpas" helped descent; meanwhile Lhakpa Gyalu also needed to be carried to ABC: according to NZ-US team's doctor 12 Oct and confirmed by Imoto, he became lethargic during 5 Oct and developed intestinal pain (due to altitude perhaps) and died 8th Oct below ABC. Sherpa Summiters: Kunga, Rolwaling, 1960 Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, 2 March 1965, his 1st 8000er Chhong Ringe, Rolwaling, 5 March 1964, his 1st 8000er Lhakpa Gyalu, Chaurikharka, 1963 this his only 8000er, but 2nd ascent of Cho Oyu. Oxygen: Imoto and all Sherpas not at all except by dying Lhakpa Gyalu on night of 7th Oct in ABC. Hashiguchi in ABC and BC. Harada, Tamura, Tabata and Otsuka - sleeping in C3 night before going to summit. Sasahara - sleeping in C3 night before summit and on 5th Oct in descent.
Accidents Otsuka & Sasahara bad frostbite; Hashiguchi very rapid pulse & did not climb; intestinal clot of Lhakpa Gyalu
Achievement -
Agency Rolwaling Trek
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455354
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w side from n (tichy rte)

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazuo Fukase M 1934 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Retired electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tomonori Harada M 1973 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Koichiro Hashiguchi M 1966 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan High school science teacher Details Other expeditions
Shigeki Imoto M 1963 Japan Climber Imari, Saga, Japan Writer Details Other expeditions
Ikuo Ogawa M 1947 Japan Exp Doctor Iruma, Saitama, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yoji Otsuka M 1971 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Shinji Sasahara M 1963 Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Restaurant worker Details Other expeditions
Hiroyoshi Tabata M 1969 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Yukihide Tamura M 1971 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kunga Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Lamabagar-3, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Dorje (Da Nawang Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Chhong Ringee (Chewang Rinzen) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Chaurikharka, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY94302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:305-306 (1995) -
CHOY94302 IWA - - - :236 (1995) -
CHOY94302 IWA - - - :44 (1995) -
CHOY94302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530500/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-Tibet-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -