Cho Oyu | 1994 W Ridge-W Face from N

A Germany expedition to Cho Oyu in 1994 via W Ridge-W Face from N, led by Erhard Loretan. Summit reached on 26th April 1994. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1325
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY94102
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Erhard Loretan
Sponsor International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 140,143
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mexico, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-04-09
Summit Date 1994-04-26
Summit Time 0957
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 150
Total Members 9
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04),ABC(13/04,5650m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(17/04,6700m),C3(03/05,7400m),TrueSmt(26/04,04/05)
Route Notes After Carlos arrived ABC got throat infection & stayed in camp 6 days. 20th went to 7400m alone for acclimatization; moved slowly because not fully well; down to ABC on 22nd. Waited till 25th, where had rested & full moon that night left ABC 3:00 pm on 25th in perfect weather (no wind) with Loretan in summit party, but Loretan not so well & no motivation for normal route so he turned back at 6600m at about 7:30 pm. Carlos continued up alone with no wind & full moon light so bright no need to use headlamps for climbing; had beautiful sunrise on Rolwaling; [on top] at 9:57 am, weather bad in descent with cloud & snowfall. Fastest ascent of Cho Oyu 19 hrs - slept in C2 at c7000m in descent; had rested & changed clothes on C1 at 6400m in ascent for one hour. Climbed direct route up from C2. No accident or frostbite; did not use oxygen - now goes to Lhotse. Helmut and Walter attempted to reach summit from C2 on 27th April but very cold & windy and turned back at 7500m. Next attempt was by three members who made C3 on the 3rd May with Danu Sherpa, who decended to C1 same day. Summiters left C3 at 5:15 am (Nepali time) & on top 11:20 am together & returned to C3 at 2 pm; 3:00 pm storm came & destroyed tents at C3. Fixed ropes & established C2, then down - doesn't like normal routes & has summited Cho Oyu. No Chinese police/army seen.
Accidents Delgado serious illness (no other serious problems)
Achievement Fastest ascent; 1st Mexican ascent
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455198
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face from n

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Outdoor activities instructor Details Other expeditions
Andres Delgado Calderon M 1969 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Hans Juerg Fluetsch M 1942 Switzerland Climber Frauenfeld, Thurgau, Switzerland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Karl Greinwald M 1960 Germany Climber Steingarden, Bavaria, Germany Joiner Details Other expeditions
Helmut Katzenmaier M 1953 Germany Climber Friedrichshafen, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Walter Korber M 1956 Germany Climber Frissen, Bavaria, Germany Nurse Details Other expeditions
Erhard Loretan M 1959 Switzerland Leader Cresuz, Fribourg, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Heidi Sinz F 1957 Germany Climber Hopferan, Bavaria, Germany Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Helge Thorolf Spindler M 1960 Germany Climber Marbach, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Salesman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY94102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:304-305 (1995) -
CHOY94102 HIGH - - - 144:40 (Nov 1994) -
CHOY94102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530403/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-the-North-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -