Cho Oyu | 1993 W Ridge-W Face from S

A Spain expedition to Cho Oyu in 1993 via W Ridge-W Face from S, led by Jean-Luc Beausire, Juan-Carlos Piedra. Summit reached on 26th January 1994. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1309
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY93401
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1993
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jean-Luc Beausire, Juan-Carlos Piedra
Sponsor Cho Oyu Friendship Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 139
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-01-08
Summit Date 1994-01-26
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 18
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1994-01-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/01,5600m),Biv1(01,19-20/01,5800m),Biv2(21/01,6400m),Biv3(22/01,6750m),Biv4(23/01,7000m),Biv5(24/01,7400m),Biv6(25/01,7900m),Smt(26/01)
Route Notes BC on glacier start of ice and end of moraine, one hour from Nangpa La high point Biv3 at top of seracs Biv4 at middle of steep snow slope Biv6 below final snow slope. 2 Swiss had good technical ability, good ice climbers in Alps but never before climbed in Himalaya, were preparing for K2 climb in 1995 which Magrina was to join. Expedition for Cho Oyu put together by 2 Swiss, who advertised in Spanish magazine & 2 responded while trekking agent told Magrima & his friend about expedition; four Spaniards actually met only on plane from Karachi to Kathmandu. Was very cold: -24C at 10 pm at BC (outside tent) on arrival there. Made no fixed camps to climb as there independent parties, but Tell decided mountain not for him after having climbed across Nangpa La to bottom of mountain, where all members camped 12 Jan at 5800m; stayed there 2 days in very bad weather & 2 tents broken by 200km/hr winds, all decided to return to BC & Tell to Ktm. 2 Swiss left BC on 19th to go up again after breakfast as weather cleared in mid-morning; snow had stopped during the previous night. At BC about 40 cm had fallen; wind had blown a lot of snow about, so difficult to say how much exactly fallen. 3 Spaniards left BC on 20th (had no walkie-talkies on this expedition). Spaniards slept on 20th at same spot had biv on 12 Jan (found there a bag of food left by Swiss). 21st Spaniards biv on ridge at 6400m at 10 pm after having trouble to find route this day saw Swiss on ridge below seracs & biv below seracs. On 22nd Spaniards left 6400m biv & climbed the ridge & seracs; Swiss climbing seracs when Spanish were on ridge. Spanish left just above serac this was last time Swiss were seen. On 23 had late start because of cold & now route is easy; 4 pm reached 7000m & pitched tent next to Swiss tent, where found sleeping bag, stove, food, etc but no one; presumably Swiss had gone for top that day, but why not taken sleeping bag or other biv equipment in winter time? 24th Spaniards followed Swiss footsteps in snow & reached 7400-7500m at 4 pm under rock. 25th again Spanish followed footsteps which were not always visible on ice; as Spaniards climbed, saw something red, which first thought was flag, but as it grew bigger, realized was a Swiss but to right of normal route in a dangerous place on rock & ice; Swiss appeared from 250m away lying with one arm outstreched. On 25th climbed rock & a small couloir; at 7600m Cucurull decided to turn back & spend night in Swiss tent at 7000m; Spanish had left their tent at 7400m & were climbing with sleeping bags but no other equipment. 2 other Spaniards Magrina & Garra, went to 7900m, where sat on top of rock in sleeping bags & got little sleep & Garras fingers became frostbitten. On 26th Magrina & Garra reached highest summit; before first summit, Swiss footsteps last seen but no indication whether they fell here, went to 1st or 2nd summit. Garra & Magrina at 2nd, highest summit at 11 am after 4 hrs climb. Garra & Magrina slept 26th night at 7000m in Swiss tent (Cucurull had gone to BC) because Magrina had fallen with their own tent and it was ruined. 27th slept at 6400m without tent & reached BC 29th 2:00 am. 2 Swiss perhaps died of fall, perhaps exhaustion, definitely not avalanche.
Accidents Garra frostbitten fingers (black but will not loose tips); Magrima swollen & painful ankle from 20m fall; all toes frostnipped of summiters & Cucurull
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455107
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face from s

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean-Luc Beausire M 1956 Switzerland Co-Leader Lausanne, Switzerland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Albert Cucurull M 1967 Spain Climber Valls, Tarragona, Spain Agricultural technician Details Other expeditions
Juan Jose (Juanjo) Garra Lorenzo M 1963 Spain Climber Lleida City, Lleida, Spain Social worker Details Other expeditions
Jordi Magrina Guell M 1951 Spain Climber Valls, Tarragona, Spain Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Juan-Carlos Piedra M 1962 Switzerland Co-Leader Preverenges, Vaud, Switzerland Draftsman Details Other expeditions
Joaquim Tell M 1965 Spain Climber Vilablareix, Girona, Spain Forest guard Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY93401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:221-222 (1994) -
CHOY93401 HIGH - - - 138:16 (May 1994) -
CHOY93401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422100/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy-1994 - - -