Cho Oyu | 1993 W Ridge-N Face direct

A Italy expedition to Cho Oyu in 1993 via W Ridge-N Face direct, led by Walter Bernardi. Summit reached on 4th May 1993. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1218
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY93106
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge-N Face direct
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Walter Bernardi
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 119
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-04-17
Summit Date 1993-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(27/04,6950m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)
Route Notes Route to C2 same as Tichy route. 1 May one member with two Argentinians and some Britons started up from ABC together to C1. 2 May they went to C2 with Taiwanese; also Sacco, Giorgis, Marzoni and Geroldi to C1. 3 May a member made C3 with Ang, British and Taiwanese while 4 from Italian team reached C2. In C2 Marzoni decided to descend because tired and did so on 3 May. 4 May to summit: Lauthier from C3, Sacco and Giorgis from C2 (with Geroldi to 8000m because late and weather changing). Lauthier left C3 at 7:40 am Chinese time and on top about 3 pm and down to C3 with freezing feet (frostbite started during ascent), while Italian men left C2 2 am and on summit 3:10 pm and returned C2 6:30 pm. 5 May all in ABC and Lauthier ABC to BC on yak (had frostbite last year at Gasherbrum II). Expedition had 10 members who left KTM together, but before they reached BC Pe and Poggiani developed mild altitude sickness and went home (on 15 April). Gazzola got mild altitude sickness at BC and immediately left (17 April). Leader Bernardi climbed to C1, got mild altitude sickness and left ABC for home on 27 April. Next day (28 April) Valverdu, who reached C1, also got altitude sickness and went home.
Accidents Lauthier 10 toes frostbitten and may lose parts; several with altitude sickness
Achievement Lauthier 1st Italian woman on summit
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454795
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-n face direct

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Walter Berardi M 1967 Italy Leader Macugnaga, Verbano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Gazzola M 1956 Italy Climber Italy Employee Details Other expeditions
Sergio Geroldi M 1945 Italy Climber Italy Bank employee Details Other expeditions
Valentina Lauthier F 1965 Italy Climber Saluggia, Vercelli, Italy Employee Details Other expeditions
Angel Valverdu Bonet M 1955 Spain Climber Spain Chemical research Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Sacco M 1963 Italy Climber Italy Employee Details Other expeditions
Claudio Giorgis M 1967 Italy Deputy Leader Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roberto Pe M 1960 Italy Climber Villadossola, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stefano Marzoni M 1964 Italy Climber - Policeman Details Other expeditions
Valerio Poggiani M 1952 Italy Climber Domodossola, Novara, Italy Pharmacist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY93106 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:277 (1994) -
CHOY93106 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427701/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-the-North-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -