Cho Oyu | 1993 W Ridge-N Face direct

A UK expedition to Cho Oyu in 1993 via W Ridge-N Face direct, led by Roger Mear. Summit reached on 4th May 1993. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1210
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY93105
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge-N Face direct
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Roger Mear
Sponsor Himalayan Kingdoms Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 118
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Argentina, Israel, Norway
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1993-04-17
Summit Date 1993-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1993-05-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(14/04,4800m),BC(17/04,5700m),ABC(18/04,5920m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6980m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)
Route Notes Followed direct route of Italians, etc before them because it was easier than cutting own steps. Easy mountain with no objective danger whatsoever. Army was in area because of Tibetan bandits threatening Chinese BC (1 night all in BC area including yak drivers huddled in 1 large tent and next day bandits disappeared) and because Tibetans were fleeing across Nangpa La. Israeli and British woman on Mear's team got only to C1: Israeli never before on big mountain, acclimatization was very slow and he climbed very slowly. British woman technically not experienced; Israeli left 5700m camp at 29th April. Member saw policeman bringing down 4 Germans; Ruth saw 2 men with guns.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st Norwegian to summit
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454795
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-n face direct

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daniel Alessio M 1964 Argentina Climber Mendoza, Argentina Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ruth Exley F 1962 UK Climber Burton-in-Kendal, Cumbria, England Marketing manager for chemical company Details Other expeditions
Mauricio Fernandez M 1968 Argentina Climber Mendoza, Argentina Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Longmuir M 1964 UK Climber Dursley, Gloucester, England Town planner Details Other expeditions
Roger P. Mear M 1950 UK Leader London, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gdaliahu (Gadi) Shtirmer M 1948 Israel Climber Givatayim, Israel Seaman Details Other expeditions
Eirik Tryti M 1959 Norway Climber Asker, Norway Software engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY93105 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:277 (1994) -
CHOY93105 HIGH - - - 130:8 (Sep 1993) -
CHOY93105 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427701/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-from-the-North-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -