Cho Oyu | 1993 W Ridge-W Face from S

A Germany expedition to Cho Oyu in 1993 via W Ridge-W Face from S, led by Peter Guggemos. Summit reached on 29th April 1993. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1208
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY93101
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Peter Guggemos
Sponsor Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 116
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-04-09
Summit Date 1993-04-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1993-05-03
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04,5250m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6750m),C3(27/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)
Route Notes BC at true Kangchung ABC across Nangpa La and just turned east on Gyabru Glacier C2 just above Icefall. First went up Samma Glacier: 3 members, team's strongst climbers, went to see SW Ridge & decided highest part of ridge (above 7600m to 8000m) "impossible for us - afraid of it" & immediately abandoned idea of ridge ascent. Made BC in usual site for cross-border. C3 established by 2 on 27th. 28th snow, wind and cold, so stayed in camp. 29th 1 member couldn't get started so another member, Seifried went up to top alone, down to C3, packed it up & down to 7000m & slept in Taiwanese C2 at 6400m & slept in Taiwanese tent; Guggemos joined them at C2 & helped carry down baggage. Guggemos had planned summit bid but had to descend with Gruenwald whose feet starting to get frostnipped. Seifried says he reached highest summit. Guggemos demands pictures within 2 months; no one was with him. Spanish (Basque & Ibanez) say Chinese army caught Germans & demanded money from them. Kopp - 23 May 93 German Cho Oyu Guggemos Germans caught by Chinese at Germans C1 which was Swiss-Australian ABC and Kopp saw this: 2 Chinese had old very long rifles and 2 had no arms. Chinese told Germans to come down to Swiss ABC, where Chinese highest official was camped; result was had to pay DM 7500 ($5000) after negotiations reduced price of $15,000 to go on up. Guggemos had told members in Germany there would be no problem to cross Nangpa La. This not right when members pay DM 13,000 each ($8000) to go with him. Swiss team's Sherpas complained to Tibetan-Chinese about team from Nepal.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454790
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face from s

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johann Baumgartner M 1951 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Printer Details Other expeditions
Robert Gruenwald M 1965 Germany Climber Apfelbach, Bavaria, Germany Bricklayer Details Other expeditions
Peter Guggemos M 1958 Germany Leader Marktoberdorf, Bavaria, Germany Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Udo Ley M 1940 Germany Climber Pleidelsheim, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Schroem M 1948 Germany Climber Singapore Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Georg Seifried M 1937 Germany Climber Mittenwald, Bavaria, Germany German government official Details Other expeditions
Erich Steinberger M 1962 Austria Climber Rottenmann, Styria, Austria Assistant in operating theater Details Other expeditions
Andreas Tauser M 1962 Germany Climber Oberstdorf, Bavaria, Germany Installs heating systems Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY93101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:220 (1994) -
CHOY93101 HIGH - - - 132:13-14 (Nov 1993) -
CHOY93101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422002/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-from-Nepal-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -