Cho Oyu | 1992 W Ridge-W Face from S

A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1992 via W Ridge-W Face from S, led by Donald McIntyre. Summit reached on 17th April 1992. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1083
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY92102
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Donald McIntyre
Sponsor 1992 Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-04-11
Summit Date 1992-04-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1992-04-26
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to dangerous rockfall in Messner Couloir and risk of being caught by Chinese
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,5275m),Dep(16/04,5640m),Biv(17/04,6100m),C1(18/04,5975m),xxx(17/04,6100m)
Route Notes BC at Kangchung's true site Depot at depot site (but slept in) Biv on Messner couloir C1 at south of border. Never went to Samma Glacier because 1st route too difficult. After making BC at Kangchung, for 6 days carried loads to depot 2 km before Nangpa La. Then 3 members made into Messner couloir up as far as 20,000 ft, where 300m cirque 45-60 degrees rock bowl. So turned back after 1 hour of observation; camped there one night. On 18th went across Nangpa La, saw German BC and not wanting to get caught, decided to abandon Cho Oyu. Camped at 1/2 km south of border and kept camp there until 23rd. On 20th 3 members climbed N Face of Pt 6210m in 8 hrs round trip to top and back. 21st other 3 members repeated climb of Pt 6210m. 22nd only 2 tried at 6600m and got half way up it; forced to turn in start of big wind and snowstorm blowing up. 23rd packed up and retreated to depot, packed up last few loads there and down to BC that night. 2 members tried Pt 6296, got half way of it. McIntyre back to BC 23rd and he and Kilgore left immediately. Marsh had already left, kicked off team (personality conflict and failure to acclimatize); left team 13th or 14th. On 1st night camped at 19,600 ft, [encountered] 4 Chinese students including 1 woman as refugees escaping in street shoes and little food and no tent; US members lead them to depot for safety.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454412
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face from s

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Todd Anderson M 1960 USA Climber Arvada, Colorado Nuclear engineer Details Other expeditions
John G. Cleary M 1952 USA Deputy Leader Reno, Nevada Geologist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Kilgore M 1954 USA Climber Albuquerque, New Mexico Woodworker Details Other expeditions
Colin E. Lynch M 1954 USA Climber San Francisco, California Construction contractor Details Other expeditions
Michael Marsh M 1961 USA Climber Los Alamos, New Mexico Environmental scientist (solid waste & recycling) Details Other expeditions
Donald D. (Don) McIntyre M 1946 USA Leader Oakton, Virginia Manager (US Government's Dept of Energy) Details Other expeditions
Doug Nixon M 1944 USA Climber Kirkland, Washington Heating technician Details Other expeditions
Jonathan M. Rosen M 1953 USA Exp Doctor Albany, New York Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY92102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:224 (1993) -
CHOY92102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199322401/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-from-the-South-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -