Cho Oyu | 1991 NW side from S

A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1991 via NW side from S, led by David Houchin. Summit reached on 8th April 1991. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 753
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY91101
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW side from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders David Houchin
Sponsor American Cho Oyu Expedition 1991
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-03-20
Summit Date 1991-04-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1991-04-11
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,5200m),Biv1(30/03,5400m),Biv2(01/04,5660m),Biv3(02/04,5660m),Biv4(07/04,6000m),xxx(08/04,6100m)
Route Notes BC at true site of Kangchung Biv at true site of Dzasampa Biv south of Nangpa La Biv where Gyabrag Glacier turns south Biv at standard ABC High point on West Face. Interested to consider climbing face east of "pa" in Nangpa Glacier of Schneider map, but after arrival at BC, found face was all blue ice which would have been possible to climb but required more equipment (including lots of ice screws) than had with them. Farrar went up on 23rd to make ABC but only 3 hrs from BC they were hit by heavy snowstorm, had to biv and overnight. 1m of snow fell, it continued next day and took party 11 hrs to struggle through 4-5 foot deep snow to BC. Houchin at this time down to Thami to resupply, snowed in at Thami one day and on down to Namche; also had bronchitis. Back to BC 28th. Farrar had limited time and with snow conditions as they were, he left BC on 28th. On 30th Bowen and Houchin and 2 Nepalese porters moved up to place just south of true site of Dzsampa. Stayed there and on 31st moved loads farther up Nangpa Glacier intending to climb either Messner or normal route. 31st again snowed but moved up on 1st (2 Nepalis, not really capable of handling these conditions and sirdar Kippa Sherpa had disappeared, so only 3 Americans now) to 5660m, just below Nangpa La, after deciding not to try Messner's icefall bad snow conditions. Another 4 inches of snow fell on night of 1st-2nd. On 2nd crosse Nangpa La and spent night at 5660m again, this time where Gyabrag Glacier turns south at "U" of Schneider map. Snowed again this night; had been carrying 35 kg loads and Ron's bad back giving trouble. Saw mountain plastered with snow and evidence of avalanching. Stayed there all of 3 April and that evening decided there was too much snow and would not go further. 4th all 3 men down to BC in one day in trail of a yak train. Sent mailrunner to Thami for Yaks on 5th and they were expected 5 days later. On 28 March, yaks carrying resupply were able to get only 1 hr below BC because of deepness of snow. On 6th Houchin, Kippa and 2 porters (1 Sherpa and 1 Gurung) went from BC to just below Nangpa La to make another try on mountain. Were stopped by snowstorm 30m below Nangpa La with one tent having been left beind. 7th went around glacier and reached standard ABC at 6000m on face across Gyabrag Glacier from pt. 6600m on Schneider map. 8th Houchin alone went up 100m on face in acclimatization climb in snowy and windy weather and back to camp - stayed in camp during bad weather of next two days and then weather was still bad with snow every day and strong wind at 6000m. Had hoped to go up to standard C1 site on 11th, but when clouds rolled in at 8:30 am, finally abandoned climb. Got back to BC on 12th having had problem with crevasse area south of Nangpa La. Met other member at Namche on 13th.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Ganesh Himal
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454036
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw side from s

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ronald E. Freitag M 1958 USA Climber Flagstaff, Arizona Telecommunications technician Details Other expeditions
Scott Bowen M 1955 USA Climber Yosemite National Park, California Park ranger Details Other expeditions
Edward L. Farrar M 1951 USA Climber Wenatchee, Washington Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
David Houchin M 1956 USA Leader Flagstaff, Arizona Park ranger Details Other expeditions
Kippa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY91101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:209-210 (1992) -
CHOY91101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220903/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-from-the-South-Pre-Monsoon - - -