Cho Oyu | 1990 SW Ridge
A USSR expedition to Cho Oyu in 1990 via SW Ridge, led by Alexander Glushkovski. Summit reached on 14th November 1990. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 702 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHOY90309 |
| Peak ID | CHOY |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USSR |
| Leaders | Alexander Glushkovski |
| Sponsor | Ask Tours & Visotnik Cho Oyu 1990 Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Bulgaria |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-10-23 |
| Summit Date | 1990-11-14 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 22 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7850m due to weather and lack of time |
| High Point (m) | 7850 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2500 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/10,5050m),C1(26/10,5600m),C2(28/10,6000m),C3(06/11,7000m),C4(09/11,7100-7200m),C5(12/11,7500m),Biv(13/11,7850m),xxx(14/11,7850m) |
| Route Notes | BC near Gyazumpa C1 at small plateau south point 6500m at bottom of its ridges C2 at point 6500m's on SW Ridge C3 at icefall above point 6500m C4 at saddle just N of "U" of Gosum on Schneider map C5 at flat saddle on SW ridge just east of 7600m peak ridge High point at SW ridge. Difficulties began from C2 (between below C2 had fixed ropes), very steep snow and rock and point 6500 and dangerous and all fixed rope C2 and C3. Very strong winds above C3 from Tibet constantly. Above C5 tried to keep to SE Ridge on northern side of ridge to snowfield where ridge got very steep to go up couloir (or perhaps to go up on Tibetan side to another snow couloir). On 13th reached snowfield and spent night in small tent with no ground sheet. Had been unable to see way above. Next day clouds and winds worse and worse and temperature dropped, becoming extremely cold so retreated to C4 and abandoned climb with such terrible weather. Fixed total of 2500m rope, mostly from C2 to C3 and some (200m) from C4 to C5 to cross the ridge. Route is possible with more time (including better phase of moon affecting weather). Left variant on to Tibetan side is easier than variant to right side. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Amtrek |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453890 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sergei Anatolievich Arsentiev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny | M | 1938 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Member of Moscow mountaineering committee | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Glushkovski | M | 1953 | USSR | Leader | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Director of alpine club | Details Other expeditions |
| Valeri Karpenko | M | 1953 | USSR | Exp Doctor | Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia, USSR | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Konovalov | M | 1959 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Aleksi (Alex) Koren | M | 1955 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Mojaev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladislav Moroz | M | 1960 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Nikolaev | M | 1959 | USSR | BC Manager | Moscow, USSR | Executive tour-operating company | Details Other expeditions |
| Petko Petkov Totev | M | 1959 | Bulgaria | Climber | Sofia, Bulgaria | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHOY90309 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 65:233-234 (1991) | - |
| CHOY90309 | AAJ | Nyka, Jozef | - | - | 66:265 (1992) | - |
| CHOY90309 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226501/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-Southwest-Ridge-Attempt-1990 | - | - | - |
| CHOY90309 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123304/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Autumn-Ascents-and-Attempt | - | - | - |