Cho Oyu | 1989 SE Face

A S Korea expedition to Cho Oyu in 1989 via SE Face, led by Lee Ho-Sang. Summit reached on 25th December 1989. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 400
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY89402
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1989
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Lee Ho-Sang
Sponsor Korean Winter Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-12-12
Summit Date 1989-12-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to death of Sirdar Ang Lhakpa
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/12,5400m),ABC(16/12,5500m),C1(18/12,6400m),C2(20/12,6800m),xxx(25/12,7800m)
Route Notes C2 on East Face High point on SE Face. 25th Dec all Koreans in C2 with high-altitude headache so high climbers were Ang Lhakpa and Ang Tshering, only were above C2 making route to C3 to be pitched at 7900m. Ang Tshering reached 7600m and Ang Lhakpa fell 200m from 7800m down face at 3:20 pm (Ang Tshering saw him fall and came to rest). Avalanche took away C2 tent in which there was no one because climbers were out trying to reach Ang Lhakpa but then big snow avalanching carried away body and it not found. After his death, all Sherpas refused to climb any more and members therefore also abandoned climb. Had planned Sherpas would stock C3 and then an alpine-style summit bid from C3 by 3 Koreans and Ang Lhakpa. Team never intended to attempt SW Face and did not do so. Belgians suggested 2 teams climb together on 18th Dec but Koreans they talked to did not understand and did not agree. Belgians cut fixed ropes and seized new rope and this made Sherpas angry (Koreans also angry) and Sherpas attacked Belgians; Koreans did not join fight but separated Sherpas and Belgians (Lee was not at camp where fight took place). This team and Belgian-French party climbed on SE Face to the right of normal line used successfully by Austrian-German team in 1978. Highest point reached 7800m was gained by Ang Lhakpa Sherpa alone; he then fell 200m and a big snow avalanche immediately carried away his body. Other Sherpas refused to continue climb, and Koreans too gave up.
Accidents Only Ang Lhakpa fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453565
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hyeon-Ku Jang M 1971 S Korea Climber Namhae, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea University student of sports Details Other expeditions
Yeung-Hwan Jeong M 1934 S Korea BC Manager Samcheonpo, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Retired government official Details Other expeditions
Duk-Moon Kang M 1960 S Korea Climber Samcheonpo, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Ho-Sang Lee M 1953 S Korea Leader Samcheonpo, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Myong-Dong Lim M 1961 S Korea Climber Samcheonpo, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Jung-Hun Park M 1971 S Korea Climber Sacheon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Just graduated from high school Details Other expeditions
Yang-Soo Sung M 1954 S Korea Climber Samcheonpo, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Manager of mountain lodge Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal Sirdar Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY89402 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:239 (1990) -
CHOY89402 MM - - - 132:11 (Mar 1990) -
CHOY89402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023901/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Attempt-Tragedy-and-Assault - - -
CHOY89402 AAJ Hubert, Alain - - 64:238-239 (1990) -
CHOY89402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023803/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Southeast-Face-Attempt-and-Assault - - -