Cho Oyu | 1987 NNW Face from N

A Netherlands expedition to Cho Oyu in 1987 via NNW Face from N, led by Bart Vos. Summit reached on 12th May 1987. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3413
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY87105
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NNW Face from N
Route 2 W Ridge-W Face (Tichy route) from N
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Bart Vos
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 34th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 1987-04-06
Summit Date 1987-05-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Palung Ri to 6600m
Campsites BC(06/04,5000m),ABC(16/04,5500m),Recce(15/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6000m),Biv1(07/05,6300m),Biv2(10/05,6700m),Biv3(11/05,7500m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes BC north of Dzapema at Kyatrak (Gyalosag Glacier west side) ABC probably Dzapema (highest yak point, not much used) Recce camp Biv on Tichy route. Vos made a trial climb to 6600m on Palung Ri on 27th April. Then bad weather and on 28th April both down to 5500m for 9 nights awaiting good weather. 6 May again to 6000m (both members) and on 7th May both to 6300m. On 8th & 9th Vos alone reached 6500m, then back to 6000m on 9th. 10th to C1 of Tichy route (no one else on mountain now) at 6700m & on up to top. Meanwhile Boom moved a camp to 7800m and waited for Vos and he descended there on 13th after having slept at 7500m on summit night. Summit was a lot of different hills with no clear top but found Chinese marker. 1st route Vos attempted is climbable with less snow (less avalanches on 65-degree steep ice at 6500m) and more time. Vos was alone 4 days (3 nights) after having left Austrians retreating from mountain at very low camp and having left Boom for his successful summit bid. On first route (NNW Face) Vos left 6300m biv on 8th but had ice and avalanching sent him back to bivouac. On 9th again up, this time via couloir and again reached 6500m but more avalanching and stood there 2 hours in midst of avalanches, then managed to abseil back ("I survived") and abandoned this route in favour of Tichy route. Had snowed 7th afternoon. Bart Vos and Ms Annette Boom, formally members of the expedition led by Marcus Schmuck, constituted their own mini-expedition and at first attempted a route different from the normal route followed by the main party: they tried to climb the north-northwest face, made two bivouacs at 6000m and 6300m, and Vos alone reached a high point of 6500m on 65 degree hard ice but then was driven off this face by serious avalanching on two successive days (8 and 9 May). He believed his line could be climbed successfully when there is less snow to avalanche on it. They then went to the normal (Tichy) route after all other climbers had left it, made two bivouacs here (at 6700m and 7500m), and Vos went alone to the summit on 12 May.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452605
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nnw face from n

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bart Vos M 1951 Netherlands Leader Femnes, Netherlands Manager (IBM) Details Other expeditions
Antoinette (Annette) Boom F 1958 Netherlands Exp Doctor Brabant, Belgium Physician Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY87105 - Vos, Bart Himalaya Dagboek Nijgh & Van Ditmar, Amsterdam - V116