Cho Oyu | 1986 E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang (to 7500m)

A Japan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1986 via E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang (to 7500m), led by Nobuo Shiraishi. Summit reached on 16th October 1986. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 911
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY86302
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang (to 7500m)
Route 2 W Ridge-W Face (Tichy)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobuo Shiraishi
Sponsor Kitakyusu Cho Oyu Expedition 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 27th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-10-09
Summit Date 1986-10-16
Summit Time 1420
Summit Days 7
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1986-10-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Ngojumba Kang (NGOJ-863-01)
Campsites BC(09/10,5300m),Biv1(10/10,5700m),Biv2(11/10,6300m),Biv3(12/10,6750m),Biv4(13/10,7200m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes BC at 5300m at site of Swiss BC this season Biv1 at Nangpa La. Attempted E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang in September. Transferred to NW Ridge (normal route) in October. After it became clear team could not succeed via E Ridge, liaison officer left BC 2 Oct to request permit for NW side (went to Namche to send radio request). No permit granted but Shiraishi and Hino left BC 5th Oct to make 2-man alpine-style climb from west. Moved up to 7200m in 4 days then stopped by bad weather for 2 days before going to summit. Found climb for most of route not technically difficult but were hampered by snow above ankles. Shiraishi gave up the attempt, but Hino reached top at 14:20 hrs, returned to 7200m at 17:55 hrs. 17th Oct bivouacked at 6750m, 18th at 5800m near Nangpa La, 19th at 5600m and 20th arrived at BC. Expedition ask that ascent not be revealed in KTM, but are happy to have it reported in Iwa-to-Yuki. Much heavy snowfall and distances between camps very long, so climbers tired. Put in total 1200m fixed rope from 5500m to about 6000m, 6100m to 6500m and 7200m to 7500m [on E Ridge route]. Asked for permit to change route to northwest side but not granted. 2 Oct liaison officer went to Namche Bazar to request change of route. Shiraishi and Hino went to northwest side, met Swiss at BC and made alpine-style ascent (no fixed camps). Left BC 5 Oct, arriveed Swiss BC 9 Oct, started ascent 10th Oct. Shiraishi frostbitten fingers from climb via southwest, but will not lose any tips; no other problems.
Accidents Shiraishi frostbitten fingers but will not lose tips; no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Above the Clouds
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452396
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from ngojumba kang (to 7500m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Etsuro Hino M 1940 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Takayoshi Kawada M 1944 Japan Climber Mizumaki, Fukuoka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tsuyoshi Murakami M 1950 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Salesman, leader's shop Details Other expeditions
Taeko Noda F 1941 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Masae Okamoto F 1959 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Shiraishi M 1942 Japan Leader Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Sports shop owner Details Other expeditions
Tateo Yamashita M 1949 Japan Climbing Leader Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Unemployed, worked in leader's sports shop Details Other expeditions
Mutsuko Okuma F - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY86302 AAJ Shiraishi, Nobuo - - 61:242 (1987) -
CHOY86302 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
CHOY86302 IWA - - - :269 (1987) -
CHOY86302 IWA - - - :64 (1987) -
CHOY86302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724201/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu - - -