Cho Oyu | 1986 W Ridge from S

A Switzerland expedition to Cho Oyu in 1986 via W Ridge from S, led by Erhard Loretan. Summit reached on 20th October 1986. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 912
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY86301
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Erhard Loretan
Sponsor Cho Oyu Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-10-08
Summit Date 1986-10-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal accident of Steiner
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Pt 6269m near BC
Campsites BC(08/10,5300m),Biv(19/10,6000m),C1(20/10,7200m),xxx(20/10,7200m)
Route Notes BC between Dzsampa and Karyolung Biv1 1 hour before Polish 1986 spring ABC Biv2 at NW Ridge High point at NW Ridge. Before 19th Oct did acclimatization climb of point 6296m. Started up from BC at midnight 19/18 Oct and arrived at biv site of 6000m at 8:00 am (as on Everest Aug 1986, rested in day time when warmer and climbed during cold). At 4:00 pm 19th started up again and made new route on face WNW of summit. Not difficult snow face (last part a little rock). Climbed till 1:00 am on 20th Oct to 7200m. Very strong wind and had to stop. 7:00 am 20th also very strong wind so decided to descend to 1st biv site. 9:00 am Steiner fell to his death. Steiner fell (was behind Loretan). Probably strong wind pushed him off. Was at 6900m and fell to 6300m but still alive. Loretan put him in sleeping bag, went to Dupre who went up with warm clothes, food, cooker, while Loretan to BC and sent sirdar to Namche for helicopter. No helicopter in 2 days so Loretan up with more food and few hours after arrival Steiner died 23 Oct evening many serious injuries.
Accidents Steiner fatal accident
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452400
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from s

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian Dupre M 1962 Switzerland Climber Bulle, Fribourg, Switzerland Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Erhard Loretan M 1959 Switzerland Leader Chatel sur Mt. Salvers, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Alain Steiner M 1960 Switzerland Climber L'Orient, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY86301 AAJ Loretan, Erhard - - 61:242 (1987) -
CHOY86301 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
CHOY86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724202/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Tragedy - - -