Cho Oyu | 1986 W Ridge-W Face (Tichy)

A USA expedition to Cho Oyu in 1986 via W Ridge-W Face (Tichy), led by James Frush. Summit reached on 11th May 1986. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 945
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY86102
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face (Tichy)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders James Frush
Sponsor Cowboys on Cho Oyu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-07
Summit Date 1986-05-11
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5200m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(22/04,6700m),C4(10/05,7500m),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes BC at 5200m at Dzasampa according to Schneider map C1 at Gyabrag Glacier near "c" of Glacier on Schneider map C2 at 6446m C3 at 6700m at base of icefall due east of point 6446m C4 at 7500m at base of rock band in rocks at bad site. Frush claims first American ascent on May 11. Claims that Smith and Schleypen of W German/USA expedition did not reach true summit on May 9 (they only reached summit plateau). Between BC and C1 had 2 temporary camps for moving loads and local porters carried to C1 and then they went home to Thami and members were alone from C1 onwards. Then in a push established C1, C2 and C3 and fixed rope in icefall above C3, then retreated in deteriorating weather for rest and waited for better weather at BC. Made summit attempt from C3 on 7th, but high winds defeated this bid not far above C3 and no C4 put in place on this try. 2nd bid on 10 May, when did pitch C4 at 7:30 pm. Bacon and Schertz supported Frush and Hambly; Bacon and Schertz would have gotten to top if otherse in support of them, but none of others went above C4. There is no doubt Smith and Schleypen reached actual summit from Swiss team on 9th May considering where they were seen by this US etc expedition and time seen, and doubts expressed by Swiss members. Frush will write Smith for photo of him with Chinese flag. Frush - 28 Sept 95 Frush and Hambly did not see Everest and Lhotse because it was cloudy. We did go on beyond 1st bump in most interminable walk of my life taking 25 breaths per step to reach summit watched on 9 May, saw 1 man (or 2) from Woerner's expedition reach 1st bump on top of Cho Oyu early in morning and start down only 15-30 meters later. Woerner said Smith got to top of rock band, i.e., first bump, but Woerner hadn't reached that point - said 1st bump was good enough. Woerner's team claims were revised after Frush's claim to have been 1st American and Smith realized he could have been 1st American himself. At first Smith said he had no photos, then photos appeared but of different flags at different place. Letter to Miss Hawley by Jim Frush - Sept 23, 1986 Enclosed are the photos I mentioned in my letter of August 23. I hope that they resolve the question of who reached the true summit of Cho Oyu. The photos were taken two days apart in a period of relatively settled weather. There is no sign in our photos of the blue and white scarf that Jan Smith indicated he tied to the summit marker. It appears to me and others who have viewed the photos that they are of two different places. I have supplied the photos to Mr.Smith but have not received a reply. Letter to Miss Hawley by Jim Frush - Aug 22, 1986 I wrote to Mr. Smith who replied he had no picture of himself on the summit. Fortunately, he enclosed, however a slide that purported to show the summit marker. We were able to compare his slide to our photos and were pleased to discover that it appears, as proven by his own photo, that Mr. Smith reached only the false summit and not the true summit, located further back on the summit plateau. I'm having copies of the photos made and will forward a set to you within two weeks. And I have so notified Mr. Smith. It appears necessary to get into this as Summit Magazine reported last week that Mr. Smith reached the summit. This report was submitted by Mike Cheney. Perhaps you would be so kind as to pass the information and the photos on to him, and ask him to correct the Summit article.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st British ascent; perhaps 1st American ascent
Agency Jai Himal Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452238
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face (tichy)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael Bacon M 1948 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Retired dentist Details Other expeditions
Michael D. Clarke M 1933 USA Climber Redmond, Washington Aircraft engineer Details Other expeditions
C. James (Jim) Frush M 1950 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Journalist & retired attorney Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Hambly M 1939 UK Climber Seattle, Washington Aircraft engineer Details Other expeditions
Alan Jennings M 1948 USA Climber Olympia, Washington Accountant Details Other expeditions
David McClung M 1943 Canada Climber Vancouver, British Colombia Avalanche scientist Details Other expeditions
Charles (Chuck) Schertz M 1954 USA Exp Doctor Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Physician Details Other expeditions
Edward Yoshida M 1949 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Vice president of genetics engineering firm Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY86102 AAJ Frush, James - - 61:241-242 (1987) -
CHOY86102 HJ Frush, Jim Cowboys on Cho Oyu - 43:114-116 (1985-1986) -
CHOY86102 MM - - - 110:10 (Jul 1986) -
CHOY86102 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
CHOY86102 CAJ McClung, David Cowboys on Cho Oyu - 70:68-69 (1987) -
CHOY86102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724100/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu - - -
CHOY86102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ - - -