Cho Oyu | 1985 W Ridge-W Face from S

A Spain expedition to Cho Oyu in 1985 via W Ridge-W Face from S, led by Javier Garayoa Aizkorbe. Summit reached on 15th May 1985. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 158
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY85103
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Javier Garayoa Aizkorbe
Sponsor Alava Expedition of Sport and Science to Cho Oyu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 13th,14th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-04-19
Summit Date 1985-05-15
Summit Time 1315
Summit Days 26
Total Days 28
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,5220m),Dep(24/04,5400m),C1(09/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(13/05,7050m),C4(14/05,7400m),Smt(15,17/05)
Route Notes BC at Dzosampa C1 at Nangpa Glacier near "g" on Schneider map C2 same as Catalans C2 C3 same as Catalans C3 C4 same as Catalans C4. Final face from large snowfall NW of summit will be difficult. Said their route from Nangpa Glacier was same as Messner's (that they did not cross Nangpa La) but they laughed as they said this, and C1 on Gyabrag Glacier near "U" on Schneider map suggests otherwise [Poles including one summiter said 5 June 85 Basques crossed Nangpa La as they did themselves]. Alberdi Gainzarain and Martinez left expedition 15 May because wives coming; did not know summit results. Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85 3 members success from S Face at 12:00 hours on 17 May: Felipe Uriarte (1944, mountain guide, Gipuzkoa), Xabier Garayoa and Atxo Apellaniz (1953, marine employee, Vitoria). Found metal flag on top left by Chinese. 15 May summiters were: Miguel Apodaca (1956, administration, Vitoria) Inaki Querejeta Koskorrotz (1956, mechanic, Vitoria) Juan Jose Amezgarai (1945, patternist, Vitoria) Banskota, Tourism - 19 May 85 Cho Oyu SW Face: 4 members summit 15 May. Next bid planned 17 May by 3 members - no names. C4 7400m 14 May C3 7050m 13 May C1 5700m 9 May Weather fine. Details of the climbing by Leader Garayoa From C4 the members of the first group Juan Oiarazabal, Juanjo Amezgarai, Miquel and Inaki summited on the top of 8201m high Cho Oyu mountain on 15th May 1985. The time was at 1:15 pm of summit without oxygen form the route of SS Cho Oyu. They started from C4 at 4 in the morning the same day at 6:00 am. The 1 group stayed at the summit for 1 hour. They took some photograph. Hoisted Nepalese and Basque flag on the top. They found Chinese-like Tibetan metalic flag at the summit. It was 1.50 mts high, different colors of seven starts on it. They were very happy. But it was too cold. It was clear all around but wind. They saw mountain Everest from the top and took photography of mtn. The second group including three members leader Xabier, Felipe and Atxo from the C4. Started early in the morning of 17th May at 6:00 am to the summit, from the SW Ridge of Cho Oyu. They reached on the top of Cho Oyu at 12:00 pm. They stayed 45 minutes on the top. They took photograph from there around. They saw from there Mount Everest, Lhotse, Tibet and took photography also. The weather was very good but very cold. The wind was normal. They also saw the Chinese and Tibetan flag. They put the Basque and Nepalese flag there and took picture of it. In this team the team leader had put one electrocardiogram matching on his body and heart, which reflected all his feeling and condition of heart of every second. It was recorded in a ultra-modern heart tape recorder (as a part of medical investigation which the team was doing in tbe BC camp, one Dr. Pepe and one nurse Maurice). The same time when expedition was going on. When the team was at the BC, the aluminium tent was put for the medical purposes, the test began for the members who were climbing, after climbing the health condition of before and after of climbing. The findings of this investigation would take to publish for a year, the investigation will finish. When all the member would be in Spain and tested again for the last time. Detail of Descending from the Summit: The first and second groups descended the same day they summited. Had on the top to C4 on 15th May and 17th May respectively. Next day the group to the C1 on 16th May and 18th May respectively. The first group came to the BC on 17th of May and second group came to the BC on 19th of May. The expedition team returned from BC to KTM on 22nd of May with 23 porters. The group divided in Namche after 3 days into two because of cargo. 9 members liaison officer and mailrunner fly from Lukla to KTM on 25 of May and two members including team leader and kitchen boy and cook came from the previous caravan route of Lukla-Jiri walking with 23 porters and by bus from Jiri to KTM. When we left the summit we took back all of our ropes, tent from each camp, we satisfied there is nothing leaving on the mountain. In the BC, also according to the instruction of liaison officer and team leader all rusted things were burnt, all plastic and other garbage were buried near the base camp. All round the BC was cleared. Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85 3 members success from SW Face at 12:00 hours on 17th May (Felippe Uriarte, Xabier Garayoa and Atxo); found metal flag on top left by Chinese.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451876
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face from s

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Julio Alberdi Gainzarain M 1953 Spain Exp Doctor Vitoria, Alava, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Maria Jesus Alvarado Herran F 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Nurse Details Other expeditions
Juan Jose Amezgarai Legarrea M 1945 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Juan Ignacio (Axto) Apellaniz Aguiriano M 1954 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Employee in city government Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Garayoa Aizcorbe M 1950 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Xabier Lopez de Gerenu Sar M 1955 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Jose Martinez Ferrer M 1953 Spain Exp Doctor Villodas, Alava, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Owner, seafood shop Details Other expeditions
Inaki Querejeta Koskorrotz M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Miguel Ruiz de Apodaca M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Banker Details Other expeditions
Felipe Uriarte Camara M 1944 Spain Climber Pasaidonibane, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY85103 AAJ Garaioa, Xabier - - 60:234 (1986) -
CHOY85103 MM - - - 105:10 (Sep 1985) -
CHOY85103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198623401/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Scientific-and-Climbing-Expedition - - -