Cho Oyu | 1984 SE Pillar

A Poland expedition to Cho Oyu in 1984 via SE Pillar, led by Andrzej Zawada. Summit reached on 12th February 1985. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 977
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY84401
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Andrzej Zawada
Sponsor International Winter Cho Oyu Expedition 1984-85
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th,11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach Lukla->Gokyo Valley
Basecamp Date 1984-12-30
Summit Date 1985-02-12
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 44
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1985-02-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/12,5200m),C1(08/01,5400m),C2(13/01,5700m),C3(29/01,6600m),C4(08/02,7200m),C5(11/02,7500m),Smt(12,15/02)
Route Notes Most difficult part of route was 1st 1000m of ridge. All afraid of rock fall. Were only two teams working high on route: four members and too much for them to carry up equipment for so many camps. So C3 tent moved up as C5, so when 2nd summit team went up, technical difficulty made them unable get to C5 and they had to biv. Plus 2nd team acclimatizations differed: 1 member from Dhaulagiri I top but 1 member only 2 nights in C3. Rested C5 one day and 15th to top. Descending Kukuczka fell 4m and decided to biv at 7300m and not take chance in dark. Biv very hard so spent 16th in C5 and 17th in C3. E Face very dangerous from many avalanches; S Ridge is very difficult. Kukuczka: Arrived Dhaulagiri I ABC, summited Left Dhaulagiri I BC 25 Jan Arrived KTM 2 Feb Flew to Lukla 8 Feb Arrived Cho Oyu BC 9 Feb Summited Cho Oyu and bived Scaled his 7th 8000er, Dhaulagiri, 21 Jan 1988. If successful on Cho Oyu, will be first climber to conquer 2nd 8000er in Nepal in such short period of time after his 1st and first to do so anywhere in winter. Tourism - 16 Feb 85 Kukuczka and Heinrich contacted BC at 2:00 pm and said they reached top yesterday very late so bived at 7920m last night. Today at 11:00 am reached C5 and will stay there tonight. Tomorrow to BC stayed on top 20 minutes, hoisted flags of Poland, Nepal and Germany and took many photos. At sunset had many beautiful sights. Weather cold (-25 degrees C) and strong wind. Kukuczka slight frostbite in fingers. All leave BC 18th. Shrestha, Tourism - 16 Feb 85 Kukuczka and Heinrich summited on 15 Feb at 5:30 pm and contacted by walkie-talkie to BC on top. Very cold, strong wind; took photos; will contact again from C5 they said. At 8:00 am today they were spotted 100m above C6 descending and BC awaiting contact yesterday biv between C6 and top. Today sunny at BC, -4 degrees C there. Summit party took long to top because of mist. Shrestha, Tourism - 15 Feb 85 Last contact 1:30 pm when 150m below summit, left C5 7:00 am for summit. Banskota - 14 Feb 85 Berbek and Pawlikowski one coming to BC today. Were in C2 last night. Kukuczka and Heinrich bived at 7550m last night near darkness. Arrive C5 at 10:00 am today, summit bid tomorrow. Banskota - 12 Feb 85 Yesterday C5 7600m SE Face at 5:30 pm by Berbeka and Pawlikowski. Two started towards summit 6:00 today and reached 200m below top by 11:00 am. Kukuczka and Heinrich C3 to C4 today.
Accidents Heinrich hit by falling rock on leg and out of action 8 days; Kukuczka some frostbite of 2 toes but expects them to heal in time; Dmoch left expedition one day after arrival at BC because of heart problem
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451783
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se pillar

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Maciej Berbeka M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Teacher Details Other expeditions
Eugeniusz (Genek) Chrobak M 1939 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Dmoch M 1932 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Krysztof (Jan) Flaczynski M 1951 Poland Exp Doctor Poznan, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Andre Frappier M - Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec Drama teacher Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Gardzielewski M 1953 Poland Climber Kielce, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Zygmunt Andrzej (Zyga) Heinrich M 1937 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jacques Olek M 1944 Canada Deputy Leader Outremont, Quebec Outdoor equipment business manager Details Other expeditions
Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Yves Tessier M 1940 Canada Climber Chateau Richer, Quebec Physician, cardiologist Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Zawada M 1928 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Geophysical engineer (Polish Acadamy of Science) Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY84401 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 59:275 (1985) -
CHOY84401 AAJ Zawada, Andrzej Cho Oyu's Three-Kilometer-High Face - 60:7-13 (1986) -
CHOY84401 AJ Zawada, Andrzej The First Winter Ascent of Cho Oyu - 93:41-47 (1988-1989) -
CHOY84401 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
CHOY84401 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
CHOY84401 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
CHOY84401 MM - - - 102:16 (Mar 1985) -
CHOY84401 CAJ Olek, Jacques & Zawada, Andrzej La Deese de la Turquoise - 70:21-25 (1987) -
CHOY84401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198600700/Cho-Oyus-Three-Kilometer-High-Face - - -
CHOY84401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527503/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-Winter-Ascent - - -
CHOY84401 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1988-89_files/AJ%201988%2041-47%20Zawada%20Cho%20Oyu.pdf - - -