Cho Oyu | 1984 W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)

A Spain expedition to Cho Oyu in 1984 via W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte), led by Lluis Belvis Del Rio. Summit reached on 20th September 1984. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 998
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY84301
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Lluis Belvis Del Rio
Sponsor Catalan Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th,9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach Thame->Dzasampa moraine BC
Basecamp Date 1984-08-22
Summit Date 1984-09-20
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 29
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1984-09-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/08,5200m),C1(31/08,5650m),C2(04/09,6400m),C3(11/09,7050m),C4(18/09,7450m),Smt(20-21/09)
Route Notes BC at Dzasampa on Nangpa Glacier last spot before moraine. SW Ridge to W Face. 1st summit attempt failed on Sep 19. Successful attempts on Sep 20-21. 1st attempt on 19th from 4 by 3 members and Nima Dorje, but too much snow falling and return to C4 from high point 7850m. On 20th party arrived top 10:00 am in strong wind. Fog and snow falling during descent. 2 hours later 2nd group of 2 members with small tent decided to try to reach top but wind forced biv at 7900m at 3:00 pm. Next day got to top at 9:00 am. Between C2 and C3 was technically most difficult part, through seracs and crevasses requiring 200m on fixed rope for descent when tired, but not really very difficult. Saw 2 slab avalanches very near. Route used about same as those of Messner and Czech ladies. Really much same as Tichy except between C1 and C2.
Accidents None; Belvis to C2 only because not strong climber
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451593
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face (messner 1983 rte)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lluis Belvis del Rio M 1953 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Emilio Civis Abad M 1943 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Industrial designer Details Other expeditions
Jean Robert Clemenson M 1938 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Antoni Llasera Parera M 1956 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Industrial engineer Details Other expeditions
Jordi Pons Sangines M 1933 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carles Valles Ocana M 1958 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Shoe salesman Details Other expeditions
Shambu Tamang M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Ang Karma Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Dhorphu, Salleri, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY84301 AAJ Pons, Jordi - - 59:275 (1985) -
CHOY84301 - Valles, Carles La Realidad de un Sueno L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain - V121
CHOY84301 MM - - - 102:14 (Mar 1985) -
CHOY84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527501/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu - - -