Cho Oyu | 1984 W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Cho Oyu in 1984 via W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte), led by Vera Komarkova. Summit reached on 13th May 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1052
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY84101
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Vera Komarkova
Sponsor International Women's Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-04-05
Summit Date 1984-05-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,5200m),C1(09/04,5500m),C2(18/04,5850m),C3(20/04,6600m),C4(28/04,7100m),C5(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)
Route Notes BC at Khadjung Glacier (same site as Messner's). 29th April made summit attempt from C4 and reached 7500m (all 4 climbers). Then Ang Rita and Nuru had to go to BC to send for fuel and oxygen to Namche while women waited in C2. Started to climb again on 8 May but snowstorm kept them in C3 for 2 days. Finally on 12 May pitched C5 and on 13 May to summit. Ang Rita and Nuru did most of load carrying and put in much of the fixed rope. These 2 Sherpas and 2 women climbed together almost all the time. Most difficult climbing between C3 and C4 steep ice and above C5 steep rock - very long route. Above C5 (7700m) small avalanche started by Ang Rita hit them in steep couloir in 2nd summit bid (Ang Rita was leading). After that no more climbing was possible. There were no members who were not exhausted from their efforts on the mountain which had begun on 12 Sept. This is small expedition, assisted by only [2 Sherpas who were listed as "members" since the peak had not been previously climbed by Nepalese citizens].
Accidents None; nearest thing to accident was May 13 avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451463
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face (messner 1983 rte)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nuru Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Climber Yarsa, Jiri - Details Other expeditions
Vera Komarkova F 1942 Czechoslovakia Leader Boulder, Colorado Researcher, plant ecology Details Other expeditions
Margita Dina Sterbova F 1940 Czechoslovakia Climber Olomouc, Czechoslovakia University teacher of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Climber Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY84101 AAJ Komarkova, Vera Cho Oyu - 59:89-93 (1985) -
CHOY84101 - Sterbova, Dina Co Oju, Tyrkysova Hora Olympia, Prague - S741
CHOY84101 MM - - - 99:8-9 (Sep 1984) -
CHOY84101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198508900/Cho-Oyu - - -