Cho Oyu | 1983 NW Ridge (Tichy rte)

A W Germany expedition to Cho Oyu in 1983 via NW Ridge (Tichy rte), led by Mischa Saleki. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3522
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY83304
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge (Tichy rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Mischa Saleki
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to lack of fitness
High Point (m) 0
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC,C1,C2(7100m),xxx(7100m)
Route Notes This stateless man who was resident in West Germany (and said to be Iranian) claimed to have summited Cho Oyu in mid-November 1983 by the standard (Tichy) route after having illegally crossed the border from Nepal into Tibet by the Nangpa La. He later published a book about his summit success and in it were pictures attempting to prove it. But his claim was false. He reached a maximum altitude of about 7000-7100m as testified by a two-man German team, Rudi Klingl and Norbert Hertkorn, who had also come via the Nangpa La and were on the mountain at the same time. The Germans reached the top on 15 November. (Klingl returned to the summit again two days later.) The photos Saleki published were taken from a film produced by the two Germans. They sued Saleki in a German court after they saw his book. Bergwelt (Feb 1986 issue) article by German's Rudi Klingl: "Saleki was in C2 at same time Germans was (15-18 Nov) but not fit enough to go to top with them. He never summited but stole their photos for book he wrote about his summit success." Messner: Saleki did not reach summit. Saleki took away their photos and claimed them as his own. Messner - 13 Feb 86 1983-84 autumn: Saleki with two 20-year-old Munich people on Cho Oyu. Two West Germans to top (one twice) but not Saleki. Saleki took away their photos and claimed them as his own. Stammberger did not succeed [on Cho Oyu, Spring 64]. Letter from Anders Bolinder - 5 March 1986 One can now also be rather sure, that all higher shots in Saleki's book were made by the 2 young Germans. Thus, please now completely cross out the name of Mr Saleki on your list of Cho Oyu climbs and add the following 2 ones: 1. 15 Nov 1983: Rudi Klingl and Norbert Hertkorn 2. 17 Nov 1983: Rudi Klingl (alone) Mr Saleki reached C2 as higher point 7100m, he was "neither physical fit for more" Mr Klingl states. Also the movie strips made by Klingl got in the hands of Mr Saleki and were used by him to "price" his own ascents. I am afraid Mr Saleki can only be described as a swindler and an impostor. The whole swindle with the 2 young Germans was carefully planned and consequently carried out to deceive them. Saleki checked then concerning their photos and movie material by "helping" them with the "development." Then later saying to his giving "friends" that it meant that it became nothing "out of their material." Then suddenly his "own movie was ready." Saleki systematically tried to swindle everybody - obviously also his publisher. But slowly these 2 young Germans realized that Saleki had betrayed them, and now the whole matter has turned into a lawsuit. Saleki is also stated to be Armenian, living until 1963 in Budapest and then in West Germany, mainly in Frankfurt/Main. If from the Iranian or Russian part of Armenia is not clear, my wife and I however think Saleki is from the Turkish part of Armenia - he looks more Turkish than Iranian in any case. Of course Saleki also in 1978 or 1979, etc. never was on the top of Cho Oyu, or over anywhere higher up on the mountain. I have already since 1991 suspected that there was something rotten with the Cho Oyu story by Mr Saleki already then at that time and Mr Greuls report in "Alpine International" 2/1989 confirmed my suspicious attitude. Klingl's description of his ascent, twice in 1993, also confirms what I always have suspected Stammberger: he never got to the highest point of Cho Oyu, but only to the so called "Hillary Summit" with Phu Dorje. As there is a considerable distance from the summit plateau rim to the highest point. Stammberger waited there, at the the rim of the plateau, but the others never turned up. Thus at last Stammberger also descended to C4 and his strange behaviour thereafter is thus also fully explained. Waiting for another attempt from C4. Letter from Anders Bolinder - 19 August 86 Concerning Cho Oyu and Mischa Saleki: He was never above 7000m as stated by Norbert Hertkorn and Rudi Klingl after the expedition 1983 Oct-Nov. See all details in "Bergwelt" 2/1986 by Klingl who was twice on the summit. I have all documentary proofs further from the father of Hertkorn. Saleki is a most ruthless impostor; by Herrligkoffer he is also stated to be "criminal" (after stealing equipment from other expedition members). The "Saleki Story" of traversing Cho Oyu in 1979 is of course all "invented" - in his book there are also no clear facts mentioned by Saleki. When actually is Armenian of Soviet-Russian origin, but via Iran later emigrated to Hungary and Western Germany. So we can completely leave Saleki's name out for anything connected with Cho Oyu. I have a whole bunch of documents about him from Mr Hertkorn, showing or proving his activities since many years. Please warn everybody in Nepal for him. This is the only thing I urge you to do. Now several lawsuits in West Germany are opened against Saleki, but as you know at least 10 Jews must be counted for every Armenian.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 5628
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge (tichy rte)

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mischa Saleki M 1945 W Germany/Iran Leader Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY83304 - Saleki, Mischa Ganz Oben Athenaum, Frankfurt, W Germany - S27