Cho Oyu | 1983 S Ridge

A Italy expedition to Cho Oyu in 1983 via S Ridge, led by Tony Klingendrath. Summit reached on 5th October 1983. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 129
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY83301
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Tony Klingendrath
Sponsor Nepal-Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-12
Summit Date 1983-10-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1983-10-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather, shortage of time and illness of 2 members
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 800
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,5280m),C1(15/09,5900m),xxx(05,08/10,6500m)
Route Notes BC at south side of small lake north of Gyazumpa & south of point 5560m on Schnedier map. Reached plateau of 6500m which think is top of difficulty, then big storm. Again reached by Giberna and Toso between 10 and 15 Oct. Then again more snow and found ropes buried and had to wait for snow conditions to improve and then on 20 Oct LO said time is up. Also 2 Sherpas sick. Yes [summit] if have 15 more days of good weather. Technical problems were above C1: snow and ice wall of 350m required fixed ropes finishing with rock wall, very long ridge route. 800m fixed rope on rock and ice ridge above C1. 3 members tried to climb to point 6515m but no success (after Cho Oyu attempt). Klingendrath - 7 Nov 83 SW - too dangerous from hanging seracs. SE Face - same only worse avalanche and icefall. S Ridge - very long but safe. Needs big expedition. Most difficult part is 1st part (to 6500m) on wall of spur; plateau safe if not a lot of snow. E Ridge also safer, but from Ngojumba. Khadga, Tourism - 25 Oct 83 Abandoned 20 Oct due to illness of 2 members, shortage of time and bad weather. 19 Oct reached 6400m but could not establish C2 (where not said) 23 Oct scheduled leave BC All Ok except 25 Sept 5900m
Accidents None except 2 Sherpas became sick
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451241
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Guido Enzman M 1951 Italy Exp Doctor Trieste, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Tullio Ferluga M 1956 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Ship's captain Details Other expeditions
Piero Gerin M 1947 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Attorney Details Other expeditions
Roberto Giberna M 1949 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Furniture maker Details Other expeditions
Tony Klingendrath M 1955 Italy Leader Trieste, Italy Geology student Details Other expeditions
Franco Toso M 1961 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Law student Details Other expeditions
Kami Rinzi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY83301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:243 (1984) -
CHOY83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424303/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-South-Face-Attempt - - -