Cho Oyu | 1979 W Ridge-W Face

A W Germany/Iran expedition to Cho Oyu in 1979 via W Ridge-W Face, led by Mischa Saleki. Summit reached on 10th October 1979. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2109
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY79301
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany/Iran
Leaders Mischa Saleki
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th claimed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley->Nangpa La
Basecamp Date 1979-09-20
Summit Date 1979-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 3
Termination Notes Success claimed
High Point (m) 8201
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09),C1(7170m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Messner - 19 March 82 Messner does not believe Saleki reached summit of Cho Oyu in 1979, but he surely was on the mountain. Chinese told Messner they got him. Mischa Saleki - 16 Nov 79 Saleki went alone across Nangpa La and then to Cho Oyu in 1977 Spring to W Ridge. Reached about 6800m under W Ridge and then fell 12m and cut left wrist and stopped. This autumn again alone on main W Ridge. Crossed Nangpa La at end of Sept and in 10 days was on summit after ferrying loads by different approach to Ridge, more west than in 1977. Icefall to surmount and on first try had hallucination of dead German and fled, breaking crampon in process, but went up again and was successful on top sometime between 10 and 13 Oct. Very bad weather during descent but found his tent then having left camp, lost his way and forgets this period but actually spent 7 days in confusion. Then met man on yak who pointed to him way to villages where Chinese police took him in charge. Had no food for 7 days and found Chinese giving him oxygen. 4 weeks in clinic including being taken to Lhasa. Goes to solo Broad Peak next June. Has made many films. Climbed Tirch Mir with Don Whillans (Schmatz party also on Tirich Mir at same time).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449781
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mischa Saleki M 1945 W Germany/Iran Climber Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY79301 AAJ - - - 55:256 (1981) -
CHOY79301 - Saleki, Mischa Allein zum Cho Oyu Werner Dausien, Hanau, W Germany - S26
CHOY79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125601/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu-1976 - - -