Cho Oyu | 1978 W Ridge-W Face

A W Germany expedition to Cho Oyu in 1978 via W Ridge-W Face, led by Hans Dieter Sauer. Summit reached on 28th October 1978. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9563
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY78302
Peak ID CHOY
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Hans Dieter Sauer
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Rolwaling->Tashi Laptsa->Namche->Gokyo->Nangpa La
Basecamp Date 1978-10-27
Summit Date 1978-10-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 1
Total Days 2
Termination Date 1978-10-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6380m
High Point (m) 6380
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/10),xxx(28/10,6380m)
Route Notes Sauer, in his own words a normal climber (normalbergsteiger) did his first mountaineering in the Himalayas in November 1976. He attempted the 6340m peak Ombigaichen (at that time without name on the Schneider map) via Mingbo La. Having reached a height of around 6200m, he decided to return because it was already late in the afternoon. But he felt still strong and the idea struck him that it could be possible to scale a 8000m peak alone provided that you have the right equipment and sufficient provisions with you. Back in Germany he made calculations on the necessary calorie and liquid intake, tested tents on glaciers and measured how much fuel is needed for melting snow and cooking. He came to the conclusion that indeed a solo ascent of an 8000m peak should be possible. Being sure that he would not get a permit Sauer decided that the undertaking had to be done clandestine. But on which mountain? The book by Herbert Tichy: Cho Oyu – Gnade der Goetter (English translation: Cho Oyu, By the Favour of the Gods), the account of the first ascent of the summit in 1954 offered the solution. Like the small expedition of Tichy he would cross the Nangpa La into Tibet (China) and climb the mountain via the NW Face. There he was out of reach of the Nepalese authorities hoping that Chinese military and police did not watch the Nangpa La. At that time Sherpas and Tibetans were allowed to cross the Nangpa La, but to foreigners the pass was off limits from the Nepalese side as well. A sentry was established in Thame. To avoid him Sauer decided to cross from Thonak Tso (north of Gokyo) to Sumna Phug (all names are taken from the updated map Khumbu Himal by Nepal-Kartenwerk der Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur vergleichende Hochgebirgsforschung – Technische Universitaet, Dresden 2013). Up to Gokyo Sauer had the help of porters, but thereafter he was alone and managed on his own. Having a load of about 50 kg he split it in two parts. He lugged up 25 kg at a time, deposited it, went back to pick up the second load, etc. In this way the distance he had to cover tripled. Therefore it took him 9 days to reach a height of 5300m before the Nangpa La (around Dzasampa) on October 18. Being already short of food he decided to return to Namche to buy new provisions. Taking the direct route to Namche via Thame telling the sentry that he came from Gokyo he reached Namche within 2 days on Friday, October 20. The next day, Saturday was, (and is) market day in Namche. Sauer bought 5 kg of tsampa, a lump of yak butter, chiura (beaten rice), a bag of peanuts, 5 boiled eggs and other items. Next day he went back via Thame without being noticed by the sentry and reached Dzasampa again on October 25. He crossed the Nangpa La the next day, this time ferrying the total load of now roughly 40 kg in one go. The frontier is marked by a pole with prayer flags. Before passing it Sauer watched the landscape very carefully for any movement of persons in the foreground or vehicles in the distance in the plain. But there was no sign of human activity. On October 27 he had established himself with his tent near the rocky ledge of the NW Face. The next day he climbed the rocky ledge, carrying a snow shovel, ropes and other climbing equipment, 5 gas cartridges and most of his foodstuff (in total 18 kg). He reached the snow ridge leading into the NW Face at a height of 6380m, according to the altimeter. He deposited the material and descended to his tent planning to move up with the tent next day and start the climb. However, during the night the weather turned bad and next morning it was snowing heavily. Being left with only one gas cartridge and little foodstuff he thought it too risky to wait for an improvement of the weather. So he decided to abandon the attempt and to return immediately over the Nangpa La. But approaching the pass the snow drift was so thick that there was zero visibility and he was forced to pitch his tent. Luckily next morning the weather was fine and he could cross the pass, reaching Namche after three days again via Thame passing the sentry at dawn. Two days later he flew out from Syangboche above Namche.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449433
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hans Dieter Sauer M 1941 W Germany Leader Pahl, Bavaria, W Germany Natural science journalist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.