Cho Oyu | 2024 S Face-E Ridge

A Russia expedition to Cho Oyu in 2024 via S Face-E Ridge, led by Andrey Vasiliev. Summit reached on 4th November 2024. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11477
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY24301
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Andrey Vasiliev
Sponsor Russian Cho Oyu Expedition 2024
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trek to Gokyo (BC site)
Basecamp Date 2024-09-21
Summit Date 2024-11-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 44
Total Days 51
Termination Date 2024-11-11
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7990m due to lack of supplies and deep snow
High Point (m) 7990
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/09),ABC(24/09,5200m),Biv1(02/10,5600m),Biv2(03/10,5900m),C1(04/10,6100m),Biv3(05/10,6700m),C2(06/10,7100m),C3(19/10,7300m),C4(01/11,7700m),C5(02/11,7850m),C6(03/11,7800m),xxx(04/11,7990m)
Route Notes Approach: Trek to Gokyo which was the BC BC 21/09 Gokyo village ABC 24/09 5200m (past the six lakes on the glacier near the icefall) Biv1 02/10 5600m Biv2 03/10 5900m C1 04/10 6100m (snow cave) Biv3 05/10 6700m C2 06/10 7100m C3 19/10 7300m C4 01/11 7700m C5 02/11 7850m C6 03/11 7800m HPt 04/11 7990m by Eizeman and Kondrashkin. They climbed Gokyo Ri for acclimatisation. After they first set up ABC on 25/09 there was a lot of snowfall which they sat out in Gokyo. On 30/09, team returned to ABC which was buried in snow. They spent 01/10 to rebuilt ABC. On 02/10 and 03/10, they spent the days in the icefall to make a route through it, which was very slow. They fixed two steep sections; 100m on the first section and 350m on the second section. On 05/10 they continued through the icefall and set up another bivy at 6700m. From here to C2 they fixed another 350m of rope as it was very steep and vertical snow. They set up C3 on top of the dome. On 07/10, they descended to ABC and on 08/10 to Gokyo. On 14/10 back to ABC; on 15/10 C1; on 16/10 C2. On 17/10, they started on the South Ridge, but it was very narrow, lots of seracs and needed a lot of equipment. They decided that they did not want to use too much rope, so they descended a bit and made a detour towards the right (east) and gained the South Ridge again bit higher up. They fixed a few hundred metres of rope and descended to C2 where they spent the night. On 19/10, they reached C3 at 7300m. Vasiliev felt altitude sickness; Vasiliev stayed there while the others fixed the ropes to 7700m; they did not stay up there and always returned to C3 to sleep. The section was very dangerous; deep snow and the slope was avalanche prone. On 21/10, they descended to C2; on 22/10 ABC; and on 23/10 back to Gokyo. Last rotation started on 28/10; 29/10 C1; 30/10 C2; 31/10 C3. Every time they went through the icefall, they had to change the route as the icefall had moved. Crevasses had gotten bigger. They worked hard to get through the icefall, however, as they were climbing without support, they did not have enough equipment. They would have needed 2500m of fixed rope; but they only had 1000m with them. On the way up to C3, they removed the fixed rope from further down to use it further up. On 01/11 Eizeman and Vasiliev fixed ropes from 7700m to 7900m where they encountered vertical ice just below the East Ridge. It was steep and difficult. While they were fixing, Kondrashkin and Shipilov carried the fixed rope up and dug a cave at 7700m. The four of them slept in the snow cave at 7700m. On 02/11, they passed the crux 50m of vertical ice and then reached the East Ridge where they stayed the night at 7850m. On 03/11 Eizeman and Shipilov moved towards the gap (crux). Eizeman fixed rope on the steep snow on the snow knife. They set up another camp which was lower down and spent the night there. On 04/11 Eizeman and Kondrashkin made it over the crux which is a gap at just below 8000m. The other two members stayed at C6. It was a 50m-abseil into the gap and then a traverse across a vertical rock. It was serious climbing and very difficult to protect. Then another 10m-abseil and another traverse of about 15 vertical metres. Two more traverses on the rock which is not vertical, but steep. That’s where they decided to stop as they knew that they would not have enough equipment to get to the summit and the snow was too deep. They descended to the other two climbers at C6 to stay the night. On 05/11, they stayed another night at C6 as they were cleaning the route during the day. On 06/11 they descended to C4; on 07/11 to C2 and on 08/11 to C1 and on 09/11 ABC. On their descent they cleaned the mountain. Back to Gokyo on 10/11. Climb abandoned due to insufficient resources as they knew they would have had to have another camp. The weather was bad, very deep snow. Eizeman was picked up by helicopter from C1 on 08/11 due to frostbite on both of his hands and feet. Team left BC on 11/11; other members trekked to Lukla. Fixed rope: they had 1000m, but maybe fixed 2500m (ropes removed and reused). No oxygen, no Sherpas. Eizeman has slight frostbite on all fingers and a few toes which he probably got when he was fixing the gully.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465928
Year 2024
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-e ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrey Vasiliev M 1983 Russia Leader Rostov-on-Don, Russia Mathmatician Details Other expeditions
Kirill Eizeman M 1988 Russia Climber Rostov-on-Don, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Kondrashkin M 1979 Russia Climber St. Petersburg, Russia Sculptor Details Other expeditions
Vitaly Shipilov M 1977 Russia Climber Rostov-on-Don, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-return-to-south-side-of-cho-oyu/ - - -
CHOY24301 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/russian-alpinists-attempting-cho-oyu-from-nepal-side - - -
CHOY24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/unlikely-allies-russians-on-cho-oyu-ukrainians-on-makalu/ - - -
CHOY24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-south-face-of-cho-oyu/ - - -
CHOY24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-to-begin-hardest-section-on-south-side-of-cho-oyu/ - - -
CHOY24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-turn-around-on-cho-oyu/ - - -