Cho Oyu | 2023 NW side

A Norway expedition to Cho Oyu in 2023 via NW side, led by Kristin Harila. Summit reached on 3rd May 2023. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11050
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY23101
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2023
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Norway
Leaders Kristin Harila
Sponsor Seven Summit Treks (SST) Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mexico
Approach From Shishapangma
Basecamp Date 2023-04-30
Summit Date 2023-05-03
Summit Time 1219
Summit Days 3
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2023-05-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7130m),Smt(03,13/05)
Route Notes Report from Kristin Harila: Approach: From Shishapangma ABC 30/04 5700m C1 02/05 6400m Smt 03/05 by Harila, Tenzing Lama, Nima [Rita] Sherpa at 12:19 pm (NST). Before the team went to Cho Oyu, they summited Shishapangma on 26/04. From Shishapangma BC they left for Tingri on 27/04 and stayed there for a few days until 30/04. From Tingri, they drove to CBC and then walked to ABC. On 02/05 they moved to C1 where they arrived at about 5 pm. Summit team, Myklebust and two Tibetan Sherpas left C1 10:45 pm. Tenzing Lama, Nima and a Tibetan went up to fix the icefall underneath C2 and did the fixing as they went along in about two or three places. Myklebust turned back at about 6900m due to tiredness and high winds. He descended to C1 and waited for the rest of the team. Harila is not quite sure where the two Tibetans turned around. The conditions on the mountain were very good. Crisp and hard snow – good for crampons. The winds were very high – up to 80km/h. Once they were on the summit plateau, they were criss-crossing to look for the prayer flags to make sure they got to the real summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C1 where they arrived at 4 pm. They had a rest there for about one hour and descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 9 pm. On the way down from the summit, Harila noticed that she got a bit snow-blinded so she needed Lama in front of her to follow him. The snow-blindness cleared after about two days. Once in ABC, they stayed one night walked to BC on 04/05 from where they immediately took a jeep to the border. The border had just closed but they managed to get through, go to Kerung where they were grilled by the Nepali border officials and carried on for another 15 minutes by jeep to meet the helicopter. They flew back to Kathmandu the same day. Harila stays a few days in Kathmandu and will fly to Makalu on 09/05 to continue her 14 peaks project. [Harila summited Makalu on 13/05 and is now on her way to Kangchenjunga.] Harila and Myklebust left ABC on 04/05. Sherpas/Tibetans above BC: 4 Oxygen: Taken and used from 6900m to top to C2 by Harila and Nima Taken and used from above C2 to summit to C2 by Lama. Report from Viridiana Alvarez Approach: From Shishapangma Route: NW-Side – variation. See pic ABC 30/04 5700m C1 02/05 6400m C2 12/05 7130m Smt 13/05 by Alvarez, Pemba Tenji, Nima Rita Sherpa at 12:15 pm. Before the team went to Cho Oyu, they summited Shishapangma on 26/04. From Shishapangma BC they left for Tingri on 27/04 and stayed there for a few days until 30/04. From Tingri, they drove to CBC and then walked to ABC. On 02/05 they moved to C1 where they arrived at about 5 pm. Alvarez was with Kristin Harila who summited from C1 on 03/05, however, she did not feel strong enough and had a sprained ankle she decided not to join her on this push. On 04/05, the team (Pemba Tenjin, Pemba) tried to reach C2, but it was too windy and as the weather forecast was not good they descended to BC on 04/05. They stayed at BC until 10/05 when they ascended to C1. They stayed two nights due to high winds. On summit push, team left at 5:30 am. There was some fixed rope from Kristin’s ascent and Nima Rita fixed a few section, on the way to the summit. Weather was good and conditions were very dry. Blue ice. There did not have any rope for the ascent. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 2 am. On 14/05 they walked to CBC, then took a jeep to Tingri. On 15/05 drive to Kerung, crossed the border and took a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Sherpas above BC: 3 Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Alvarez From C2 to top to C1 by Sherpas. The Story from Cho Oyu (Kristin Harila) It's finally done! The Cho Oyu summit means I completed all the 14 8000m, thank you for all the congratulations. After Shisha, we rested for 3 days in Tingri and went directly up to Cho Oyu BC with one rest day there before starting up to C1. It was a long way up. We had a plan to go to C2 from BC but saw that it would be too long to do that so we rested in C1 for 5 hours before starting the summit push of 1800 metres! The longest summit push I have ever done. We knew we had a chance with the weather even if there was a lot of wind. So we started from C1 at 1 am. The conditions on the mountain were good with no deep snow. After a little, Matias decided to go back to C1. Lama had a high speed because he knew we had to climb such long way and he was fixing ropes as we were climbing. It was windy so at about 6900m I put on oxygen. After 14 hours we reached the summit with Lama and Ngima. It's a very very big plateau on Cho Oyu. There were high winds up there and we also saw the Nepal mountains. After summitting, we went straight down to C1. There was a lot of wind and I had some problems with my eyes. I was happy to see Matias, Viridiana and the others Sherpas in the team. Then, we decided to go all the way back to BC. The whole journey from C1 to summit and down again took about 23 hours. Cho Oyu was the hardest climbs I've ever done, not only because of the very long push, but also the short rests. I was super tired after the climb but I am happy that we were able to summit both mountains. Unfortunately, we were only given the permits to climb Shisha and Cho Oyu once. Now, I'm enjoying some rest days in Kathmandu before starting for the next step of my adventure. Big thank you to my super strong Sherpas who summitted with me: Lama (@tenjin.sherpa.752) and Ngima, as well as all my team (@Climbalaya @Sevensummittreks) and my sponsors. Kristin Harila
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks, Climbalaya
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464476
Year 2023
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kristin Harila F 1986 Norway Leader Vestre Jakobselv, Norway - Details Other expeditions
Viridiana Alvarez Chavez F 1983 Mexico Climber Aguascalientes, Mexico - Details Other expeditions
Matias Myklebust M 1993 Norway Camerman Oslo, Norway Film director Details Other expeditions
Ngima Rita Sherpa M 1994 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tenjin Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Phurte, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing (Tenzen) Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOY23101 - - https://explorersweb.com/three-women-score-permits-to-climb-tibets-8000ers/ - - -
CHOY23101 - - https://explorersweb.com/breaking-cho-oyu-summits/ - - -
CHOY23101 - - https://explorersweb.com/one-woman-cho-oyu/ - - -
CHOY23101 - - https://explorersweb.com/viridiana-alvarez-summits-cho-oyu/ - - -