Cho Oyu | 2013 NW side

A Estonia expedition to Cho Oyu in 2013 via NW side, led by Uko Noulik. Summit reached on 13th May 2013. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7961
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY13105
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Estonia
Leaders Uko Noulik
Sponsor Uko & Anu Cho Oyu 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
Basecamp Date 2013-04-18
Summit Date 2013-05-13
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 25
Total Days 27
Termination Date 2013-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 600
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7200m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)
Route Notes Uko and Anu intended to climb without Sherpas or fixed ropes to the summit. The conditions on the mountain this season being quite difficult with mainly ice and stones and with most of time bad weather and strong winds, they eventually had to hire a local guide. In fact, no so many teams being involved on the mountain (5 groups only), and no Sherpas from any teams (e.g., Snowy Horizon, with 3 Sherpas for 11 members) accepting to equip the mountain above C2 for any money amount. When Xavier Juanola left the mountain, Uko and Anu managed to hire his Sherpa, Dipen Roshan Bhattarai (with Monterosa Treks), who was basically the only one who accepted to get higher than C2 for a summit push (moreover, he knew already the route for the summit that he climbed in 2009 and 2011). Schedule: 26/4: first night at C1 27/4 to 29/5: 3 stormy nights at an intermediate camp at 6800m then back to ABC. 09/5: the trio of Anu, Uko and Dipen slept at C1. 10/5: same for C2. 11/5: first night at C3. This day, Dipen fixed 600m on the route from C2 to C3. 12/5: the trio started late in the evening at 11 pm for the summit. Unfortunately, Anu couldn't find her inner gloves, so she had to cimb only with her down external gloves what later provoked her frostbites (as she had to take them off several times to put her jumar on the remaining fixed ropes for abseiling). Morever, just one hour after departure, Uko and Anu's only oxygen bottles (each had one) didn't work anymore!. The team climbed all way up with 100 km/h winds, no sun and eventually reached the summit at 10 am in the clouds (picture of the summit day evocative, with not more than 1 meter visibility; same for the one taken from ABC by Ilya Levchenko). On the way down, in a couloir, the team used old fixed ropes. Even if he tried each of these before abseiling. Uko fell one time from 5m as the rope broke whilst descending (precisely on the jumar's location), receptioning himself with his crampons on stones. Fortunately he had nothing broken. The team came back to C3 at 3 pm where there slept for the third time. The day after they were back to the ABC, where Austrians gave care to Anu's frostbitten hands (probably saving her some of it). According to the Austrians, the wind speed on their summit day was already 100 km only at C3. Uko would be the first Estonian female climber to reach an 8000er summit. Hired: Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai, Hangdewa-6, Taplejung, 16/02/85 (he climbed without oxygen) Telephone conversation with Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai - 26 June 2013 (about his Cho Oyu Climb with Estonians) According to Dipen Bhattarai from C2 they went to C3. In C3 weather was very bad, so Austrians returned on 11th. So he joined the Estonians. On 12th he reached C3 with the couple. On 12 pm they started from C3 and reached summit on 13th at 10 am. They stayed in summit for 15 minutes. They reached C3 at 5:30 pm. Dipen Bhattarai said he had pics of summit but since the visibility was very bad it was not clear. He was given email ID to send the summit pictures which he had promised, but he did not send and stopped answering phone calls too. Email from Jane Riga - 3 June 2013 I was talking with our Sherpas whose names are Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tendu Sherpa, they did summit Cho Oyu on 22nd May 2013 with John and rest of the group. Here are the words what they said. Ngima Sherpa: "I am not sure whether they summited or not. When they claim for summit the condition so so bad." Lakpa Tendu Sherpa: "When I connect with Mr. Diding Bhattarai, climbing Sherpa of Estonian climber, Mr. Bhattarai told me that they returned from 8000m because of bad condition and female climber got frostbite. They stay 5-6 days in C3." Email from Anu Noulik to Miss Hawley - 28 July 2013 We knew our Sherpa had been on the summit twice before. And we strongly believe that it was so because he knew the way even in the dark. And he knew where the right place was to rise on the summit plateau. And there were several old fixed ropes like I said before. Yes of course could not take photos at the summit because of the very poor visibility. Yes we have one photo of the summit. Our camera was frozen and our Sherpa couldn't take our picture, I also tried, but couldn't. I already gave up trying when the camera took a crooked picture of my husband - the quality was poor. The last slope before the summit plateau was really steep and rocky, the plateau wasn't so steep and it was much easier to go there, no more ropes, also the snow wasn't deep only the rising wind was against and it started snowing. We only wanted to try the oxygen for future but there was no actual need for it (our acclimatization was excellent). I don't know how long my only bottle lasted but my mask was frozen soon and I gave up. When we climbed up the culuar [sic] and went to the final slopes we put the masks in our backpacks. We never planned to use oxygen but decided to see how it goes. I wore big warm gloves but there were no inner gloves. My frostbite was probably not caused by the gloves, but my body just gave up in such hard conditions. I went in the hopes of fulfilling my dream and in the end it didn't turn out as I had thought. I wanted to go up for the view, I wanted to see Everest, but we didn't see it. I was very disappointed. Thinking back I regret going to the top after it was clear that the weather was getting worse, but at the end it was the only accomplishment which we succeeded in. Our planning and training before the trip paid off because we did get to the top. Email from Jane Riga - 26 June 2013 At 3 pm their Sherpa returned to ABC (he isn't Sherpas nationality by the way). He was very tired and I asked him about results of summit bid. He answered something like "we climb yesterday...very bad weather cold and then he said "only 8000." I interpret it like highest altitude during their attempt. After that he drank some juice and went to sleep. At 9 pm (2 hours after sunset) I was sleeping but woke up due to voices outside the tent, I turned on my headlamp, left my tent and saw Anu & Uko. Their faces was purple after sunburns and when I saw ten black fingers of Anu. So I asked Austrian group to provide medical help and assisted them a little. It was clear that there is a 99 percent probability that some fingers will be amputated. So it was not a right moment to ask (losers) I hear that your summit bid failed. May 15 Early in the morning (5-6am) I was surprised when Uko took sheet of paper and ask Sherpa to write down some information, like "Uko Noulik summit time 10:00 (I don't remember exact phrase and time). I sat there quiet and think that probably I don't understand something in Sherpa story. Uko and Anu was tired and can't concentrate to pack their things and leave ABC. I just focused them on fast leaving ABC to reach hospital as quickly as possible and don't force them to long discussions. I said "Ok" just finish it and we must start our long way to our 4X4 car." Some hours later, in the car, I asked them - why Sherpa said about 8000 but u said about summit? And they answered that they were on summit. Taking into consideration fact about fingers amputated perspective I don't force question "are u really was on summit?" On May 10 Sherpa fixed ropes above C2 and returned to C2 to sleep in big tent. On May 11 he climbed to C3 with Estonians and they sleep in a small 2-person tent together. May 12 weather was bad and Sherpa returned to C2 to have more confortable condition in a big tent. May 13: 2 hours before midnight Sherpa woke up and climbed to C3, woke up Uko and Anu and at midnight they start to climb. Late evening they returned back. I'm not sure but probably Sherpa returned to C2. May 14 - all of them returned to ABC. Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013 When asked whether Levchenko knew Estonian couple from before and has gone to Cho Oyu last April/May she said she has never met them before. Cons: Comparing to other climbers they were very slow. Usually they need 1.5X...2X more time to climb from one camp to another. Their guide after returning to ABC told something (in very unclear English) what I interpret like "we reach only 8000m and then return." Weather on that day was extremely cold and windy. The summit was covered by cloud what means 10-20 meters of visibility. Some climbers suggests that there are lots of prayer flags on the summit. Estonian couple didn't tell about them. Pros: They use oxygen bottles, one person, what can boost them until altitude of 8000m. Their guide is adequate man and he sign paper with fact of successful summiting without any questions. I was in the dining tent at this moment. I'm sure that Uko and Anu would not lie about summiting fact. At least, they believe that they were there (even if they were not). To summarize it all, I think that the "Real Truth" in that situation has very virtual nature. It seems like nobody, who had climbed Cho Oyu on May 13, knows 100 percent truth. Uko and Anu were extremely tired, Anu got frostbites of all her fingers, they can't see nothing and they don't use GPS. They just walk somewhere until the moment when their guide said them something like "Ok it's time for photo and we can go back." Their guide seems to be the most informed person. But there are lot of contradictions in his story. One example of this - he told that they turn back at 15:00 not 10:00. And it was hard to understand his English to clarify important details. So I think - maybe they were there, maybe not." Just imagine a situation - if they would understand (some months later) that they made mistake and in fact don't reach the summit ...it would be a big challenge for them to live with fact that their names in Cho Oyu list is just a lie. Day by day, year by year. Indeed, I vote for decision to write them to summiting list. P.S. In addition, I was a little bit wondered - how can help in this question strange interviewing of 10...100 climbers who sat in Base Camp or even was very far from Cho Oyu? To say more, I think that I was source of at least 70 percent of opinions of those people. I like to talk with members of other expedition, and discuss about my dialectical point of view on Estonian mystery with all expeditions in ABC and with many climbers in Kathmandu and Pokhara. So, an opinion of that big group is equal to opinion of just one person. As I said before there are only 3 persons (Anu, Uko, Nepali guide) who was there and can think about interpretation of facts. All other opinions is the same like an opinion of my mom. Email from Rodolphe Popier to Miss Hawley - 21 June 2013 In my rememberings of their interview day, Uko and Anu didn't really know if they really were on top, but relied mostly on the expertise of Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai, who went 2 times there before (as they told me: I didn't know Roshan never went on summit and didn't check it unfortunately. I remember however that Roshan told Jeevan a few days later that he went on top). So I just trust them, as they seemed honest. In fact after the question of their presumed summit, they just content to tell me: "we don't know but we are, happy that Anu is the first Estonian woman to reach 8000m or maybe to reach summit of an 8000er peak." Something like this. So I just marked summit for them, even if with no material proof. Email from Stephan Andres to Miss Hawley - 29 Aug 2013 I did not know that Roshan Bhattarai is not a Buddhist because in the mountains experience, knowledge and human qualities are more important than religion. Roshan went with us as "climbing Sherpa" and his task, together with 2 climbing Sherpas, as to fix the high camps and the transport of everything what is needed there and also supporting the expedition members during climbing. Roshan was 2 or 3 times in Camp 2 and also on the day, when were in Camp 2. As far as I know he did not climb higher than C2 in this expedition. He clearly showed his qualities not only as a very good climber, but also a gentle and helpful guy and a very nice human being. He definitely was a very valuable member of the whole team. Email from Leitner Christian to Miss Hawley - 14 June 2013 Concerning Uko and Anu Noulik I can only tell that we met them for the first time in C2. In the morning of May 11 they went from Camp 2 to Camp 3, together with the Sherpa. They started without oxygen about 2 hours before Engelbert Aspeck, Ernst Meschik and me (Leitner Christian) but we passed them I think 3 hours later, about 100m below Camp 3. Dr. Aspect from our group turned around because of the bad weather, Meschik Ernst and me reached Camp 3. The Sherpa of the Estonian group has been already in C3, waiting for Anu and Uko Noulik. The weather was now that bad (stormy, snowy and foggy) that after a short break at Camp 3, Meschik Ernst and me decided to go down to C2 and spent the night there. When we dismount our tent, Anu and Uko reached their tent in Camp 3. They took about 6 hours from C2 to C3. The night from May 11 to May 12th was very stormy. So it was impossible for starting to the top. The next morning the weather was getting better slowly but still strong wind on the top. Our group decided to go down to ABC. What we heard is, that Anu and Uko started in the following night to the top. Nobody in ABC had contact with Anu, Uko and his Sherpa. Nobody knows what they are going to do! Then we heard nothing from them till... On May 14th at about 9 pm, a Russian guy from their group came to our tents in ABC and asked Dr. Aspeck, if he could hold 2 Estonians people. One with 10 frozen fingers and the other with a frozen nose. Dr. Aspeck, our Sherpa Chuldim, Meschik Ernst and me went went to the group. All 3 (Anu, Uko and Sherpa) have been in ABC. Anu (the wife) has to 10 black frozen fingers. We treated her medically, cut the wedding ring from her finger and gave her an infusion. She and the Sherpa told us, that they did not reach the summit!! They reached about 8000m. For the 400m from C3 to the altitude of 8000m they took 13 hours, so the Sherpa told us!! They also went with oxygen and the problems with their fingers are due to the reason, that Anu lost one of their gloves. For the next (15th May) the Sherpas organized a transport from middle camp to the hospital of Kathmandu. That is what we all know from the Estonian couple. We are all very astonished because for all people in ABC it was clear that they did not reach the summit. Email from Deha Shrestha (Everest Parivar) to Jane Riga - 3 June 2013 I was talking to our Sherpas whose names are Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tendu Sherpa, they did summit Cho Oyu on 22nd May 2013 with John and rest of our group. Here are the words they said. Ngima Sherpa: "I am not sure whether they summited or not. When they claim for summit the condition was so bad." Lakpa Tendu Sherpa: "When I connect with Mr. Diding Bhattarai, climbing Sherpa of Estonian climbers, Mr. Bhattarai told me that they returned from 8000m because of bad condition and female climber got frostbite. They stayed 5-6 days in C3." Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013 April 25 - Estonians start from ABC to C1, but made mid-camp at 6000m April 26 - My way ABC-Camp 1 had taken less than 6 hours, I met Uko and Anu at 6000m, they reached C1 nearly 1 hour after me. April 30 - My time ABC-Camp 1 = 3:30, Uko and Anu = 7:40 May 1 - My time C1-C2 = 8 hr, Uko and Anu made mid-camp on 6800m. May 9 - My time ABC-C1 = 3:50, Uko and Anu arrived 2-3 hours later. May 10 - My time C1-C2 = 6:30, Uko and Anu arrived 2-4 hours later. Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013 Initially, they had 2 bottles of oxygen for the emergency case. After Tony's (one of our expedition guy from UK) decision to finish his attempt on Cho Oyu they bought his bottle. Thus, they had 3 full bottles total in Camp 3. And they didn't use it on C2 and below. They told that the guide suggested them to use oxygen from the start from C3. The reason was obvious - they climb very slow. After that as I understand and remember Uko's mask probably was broken. And something was not good with Anu's mask too (don't remember exactly). On 8000m they leave empty bottles and continue to climb without oxygen. As they reported "it was even easy without uncomfortable mask on face." Our expedition members, 7 climbers, guide, cook and helper from Tingri. We climb by our own plans but sometimes we grouped together for a day or two. You can see my altitude and oxygenation graph. During my final attempt I had only 50 percent oxygen graph in C2. That was the reason to stop my attempt. Only 3 persons went to the summit attempt. All other people did not go higher than Camp 3. They rehired guide from other member of our expedition who decided to finish his attempt.
Accidents Anu had frostbite (all fingers first digits)
Achievement 1st Estonian female ascent of Cho Oyu?
Agency Makalu Adventure
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462039
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anu Noulik F 1963 Estonia Climber Saue, Estonia Encylopedia editor Details Other expeditions
Uko Noulik M 1974 Estonia Leader Saue, Estonia Project manager Details Other expeditions
Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Hangdewa-6, Taplejung - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.