Cho Oyu | 2007 NW side

A Russia expedition to Cho Oyu in 2007 via NW side, led by Vladimir Zadokhin. Summit reached on 2nd October 2007. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5770
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY07319
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Vladimir Zadokhin
Sponsor Russians on Cho Oyu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
Basecamp Date 2007-09-07
Summit Date 2007-10-02
Summit Time 1553
Summit Days 25
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2007-10-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),Smt(02/10)
Route Notes Korshunov started from C2 at 9 am. He reached C3 at noon and carried on to summit straight away. Good views of Everest, very strong wind. He descended to C2, arrived at 6:30 pm. Stayed night there and descended to ABC on 3 Oct. Klochko reached about 6600m on 20 Sept just below the icefall. He felt the altitude and descended to ABC the same day. He left ABC on 25 Sept. Zadokhin, according to Van Den Berghe reached C2 on 16 Sept and slept there. On 23 Sept he had stayed at C1 and got a bad throat infection. He descended to ABC the next day and left ABC on 25 Sept. Ascent disputed by Bruno Buchet and Tom Van Den Berghe. Van Den Berghe saw Korshunov at 8:40 am at C2. He does not think Korshunov was getting ready to go up that day. Van Den Berghe was expecting him to go up on 3 Oct. Buchet, who summited on 2 Oct at 1 pm, said that he never saw Korshunov above C3, which he should have down on his way down. Neither did Diego Fregona from Italy. Kiyoshi Ujijima's Sherpa, Lhakpa, said he saw Korshunov at C3 on 2 Oct (thats what he told Van Den Berghe). The next time Van Den Berghe was at ABC 3 Oct. He said Korshunov never said anything about the summit (however, communication is difficult as Korshunov's English is very bad). The first time Asian Trekking clients heard about his summit success was at Asian Trekking's office on 7 Oct. When Korshunov signed the paper stating his summit. They were all surprised!! (Korshunov spoke very little German, so communication was difficult. No English at all). Latvian Cho Oyu members regarding Boris Korshunov - 14 Oct 2007 Boris Korshunov was a member of a three-man Russian Cho Oyu expedition led by Vladimir Zadokhin and claimed to have summited on 2 Oct. The three-member Latvian Cho Oyu team said on their return from their ascent that their leader, Atis Plakans, met Boris in C3 and chatted with him from 12:00 to 12:30 pm on the 2nd while Plakans was pitching a tent (he had seen him in C2 on the 1st). Plakans left C3 at 3:30 pm and didn't see the Russian again that day -- didn't see him going up or down, but assumed he had either gone into someone else's tent or down to C2. On the 3rd, Plakans met him next in C2 at 10:30 am and in C1 at 3:30 pm. Boris said nothing to Plakans about having summited, which is odd if he actually had. This team was not prepared to state flatly whether he had or not; they seemed quite doubtful but were basically undecided whether he did or did not reach the top. Abramov Russian Cho Oyu members regarding Boris Korshunov - 16 Oct 2007 Abramov, Chesnokov and Moskalov said they believed Korshunov's summit claim. He was a very fast climber; went from ABC to C1 in 2 hours 31 minutes and from C1 to C2 in 3 hours 15 minutes, a climb that normally takes five or six hours. He is a marathon runner. He is very strong and was in good condition. He normally does not use oxygen, but in this summit push he took Abramov's advice to use it: he started using it probably at the Yellow Band (he said at "the rock") and continued to use it to the summit. Where he stopped, these Russians didn't know. In his interview with Billi Bierling on 7 Oct, Korshunov said that his team did not have oxygen with them and did not use any; on the team's arrival, his leader told Billi they were taking some for medical use only. Abramov confirmed to Katya -- see below that Boris's team had brought oxygen with them and left it with Boris when they left before him. Katya Goryshina of Royal Mountain Travel spoke with Abramov and other teammates on 18 Oct. They were inclined to believe Boris because he had made many speed climbs, recently setting a record on Elbrus; they think it was possible for him to descend in the extremely brief time cited by French climber Buchet in his email of 17 October mentioned below. But "they also know that sometimes he loses his mind." They will speak with Boris's teammates on return to Russia and report back to Katya. Katya's husband spoke with Boris on his return to Kathmandu: Boris said he had summited but gave no details. Belgian Cho Oyu leader Tom van Den Berghe told Billi Bierling on 4 Nov in Kathmandu that the Russian team of which Boris was a member had two oxygen bottles at C2. He does not believe that Boris reached the summit. French Cho Oyu Climber Bruno Buchet said in an email of 17 Oct 2007 that he has no doubt at all that Korshunov did not reach the summit. Email from Bruno Buchet - 17 Oct 2007 I was shocked to hear that he had summited in Asian Trekking offices because of course it was breaking news for everyone! He had never before mentioned it with us in the group and although we had difficulties communicating (as you know the old man had poor German and no English); the new came as a total surprise to me. I didn't say anything because I thought that if it would make an old man happy, well... But later at home I realized Boris was everywhere! I promptly asked Asian Trekking to withdraw his photo from its expedition result page because it was a lie and Jiten Shrestha complied, but he's still on EverestNews with pretty stinking notions that the Russians are really the best and lost longer than anyone. Honestly I would care little if he was not making such noise but now I think the truth should come out: he never went past C3 where he was seen by Kiyoshi's Sherpa Lhakpa on Oct 2nd. When I left C2 at 0:3 on Oct 2nd he was in his Ferrino tent which he had started digging out from the ice right across [from] mine and when I returned to my tent the same day after summiting, he was in his tent at 4:30 because he offered a cup of tea and didn't say anything about what he had been doing. I remember he said in Kathmandu he had summited at 3:53 pm that day but he couldn't have returned to be in his tent 45 minutes later, and he didn't look like a [man] who has just summited.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459893
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Valeri Klochko M 1957 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Boris Korshunov M 1935 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Zadokhin M 1967 Russia Leader Moscow, Russia Construction company manager Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.