Cho Oyu | 2005 NW side
A Italy expedition to Cho Oyu in 2005 via NW side, led by Gloria Brighenti. Summit reached on 24th April 2005. 1 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4862 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHOY05121 |
| Peak ID | CHOY |
| Year | 2005 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NW side |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Gloria Brighenti |
| Sponsor | Independent climber |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2005-04-14 |
| Summit Date | 2005-04-24 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 10 |
| Total Days | 19 |
| Termination Date | 2005-05-03 |
| Termination Reason | 6 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7000m due to Brighenti's being hit by lightning |
| High Point (m) | 7000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 1 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(14/04),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,7000m) |
| Route Notes | Hermann Berie (leader of Amical Cho Oyu expedition) - 17 May 2005 Gloria was in her tent at C1 (6500m) on 24 April at 11:00 pm when her "Sherpa" called for help and Fabrizio (Manoni of Berardi's expedition) heard her and called Berie knowing he had oxygen. Berie and Adank (his paramedic member) went up to her. She was lying in her tent not breathing. They gave her oxygen and she resumed breathing after 2-3 minutes; she had no singe marks. She would stop breathing occasionally; she was in shock. Fabrizio stayed with her all night. Next day she could descend on her own feet. She said that in 2000 she had been in a coma for six months. * Man Bahadur Gurung, 22/2/65, Sitalpati, Cho Oyu X4, etc. Brighenti e-mail to Miss Hawley - 24 May 2005 I arrived at CBC on April 14th but I stayed one day and than I returned to Tingri for two days for problem sickness (diarrhea). At April 16th I returned at CBC. I arrived in ABC on April 18th and C1 on April 23rd (6400m). I climbed higher than C1 to about 7000m perhaps more because I saw the tents in C2 but I stopped before C2 just for acclimatization on 24th April ,then in the same day I came back to C1. The weather started to change and I decided to come back before the storm to C1. Mr Man Bahadur Gurung didn't climb with me that day. He started before me to go to C2 to prepare the tent and the place. I decided to meet Mr Bahadur in C1 and stay in there for the second night. Our program was to reach C2 three days after, step by step. We met in C1 at six o'clock. I didn't reach the highest point with him but I was with Kazakh people and other people from other expeditions, a lot of people were on the way that day and it was beautiful day in the morning. I did not take any bottled oxygen for climbing and I didn't use any other team's oxygen. It was April 24th and my second night in C1. I slept alone in my tent on the left crest. Over my tent just 3 meters away was Man Bahadur sleeping alone in his tent. I was sleeping and outside it was snowing and was wind. Around 8 o'clock (sorry I was sleeping and I don't remember very well the time) I heard a strange noise and vibration around my head and my mouth was strange....the taste was strange. Immediately I saw something happen. I saw a big lightning and after my legs was constrained I felt pain in them, in my arms and hands and in my left shoulder. For sometime I could not understand, then I tried to move my legs but it was impossible so I understood that I was struck by lightning. I couldn't move my body and I tried calling for help for ten and more minutes but nobody could hear me because out was a big storm. After sometime Man Bahadur came to my tent and asked me what happened. He was scared. I explained him and told him to go and ask for help from people on the glacier. I could not move my body. At that moment I saw a hole in my tent next to my shoulder. I was nervous and scared. I told him to call Italian people. He went down, came back and told me that nobody agreed to help him. I asked him to go again and move the tents. After five minutes he arrived with Fabrizio Manoni a mountain guide from Italy. Fabrizio stayed ten meters from my tent distance and he told me that he couldn't come to my tent because there was too much static energy on the rock and air. After he came into the tent and told me: I will carry you out of the tent, you can't stay in your tent as it is very dangerous and you are in shock but I can't do it by myself. I need help. Man Bahadur returned on glacier and called other people (from Alemannia Expedition) and the mountain guide Hermann Berie with the doctor Markus (I don't know his surname) came into my tent. Afterwards I fell unconscious and don't remember anything except people around me. They asked me: Gloria you have to breathe and open your eyes but I couldn't breathe and I was so scared because I could not move my legs and the pain at my shoulder was severe. They put me on oxygen and massaged my heart when I didn't breathe. They made some examination at my legs and my body. One Italian called Italy with satellite phone at the anesthesist and he told him to put me on oxygen and protect her from heart attack. I kept oxygen for all night and Mr Manoni Fabrizio slept in my tent to control me and control the oxygen...the other people stayed till three or four o'clock. The night was bad. In the morning my legs were better but my feet and my hands and fingers were burned like my shoulder. (not serious). Believe me it was incredible and bad experience. I want to say thanks to Mr Man Bahadur, Mr Manoni Fabrizio, Mr Hermann Berie and Markus. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Cho Oyu Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458910 |
| Year | 2005 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw side |
Members
1 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gloria Brighenti | F | 1969 | Italy | Leader | Rovereto, Trento, Italy | Nurse working in operating room for orthopedic emergency & alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.