Cho Oyu | 2004 NW side

A Australia expedition to Cho Oyu in 2004 via NW side, led by John Cook. Summit reached on 26th September 2004. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4682
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY04318
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders John Cook
Sponsor The 17-year climb John Cook Expedition Cho Oyu 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-09-08
Summit Date 2004-09-26
Summit Time 0430
Summit Days 18
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2004-09-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
Route Notes 21 Sept Cook to 7100m and return C1, tired; 22 to ABC. 22nd Cook now having period breathing problems so consulted Jorge Egocheaga, the Spanish doctor, who gave him drugs which took a course of 4 days. 25th Cook decided no more climbing and stayed in ABC and asked Sherpas to carry to top and nail clippings of his father. 25th Sherpas ABC to C2 and 26th on top; left C2 midnight NST and on top at top at 4:30 am, waited half four for daylight and saw Everest, down to ABC at 3:00 pm, clearing camps on the way down. 25th Cook unsteady on foot; on 26th went with oxygen and into convulsions and became unconscious evening 26th. 6:00 am Lhakpa realized he wasn't waking up and Egocheaga called to Cook's tent, gave more drugs. 8:00 am 2 yaks, 5 porters and French climber and 2 Sherpas evacuated him, but later 2 Spanish doctors came and gave injection, got to Jeep 5:30 pm and 1:00 am to Zangmu; crossed border but now Maoist general strike; now Cook conscious and found Australian embassy's telephone number and called KTM and helicopter within one hour picked him up brought to KTM to CIWEC clinic. Oxygen: Sherpas none. Cook: from C1 to 7100m 21 Sept; 26th Sept from ABC to Zangmu on oxygen constantly, then supply running low so from Zangmu to KTM only intermittently and even to 4th Oct in KTM. In KTM 4 Oct using stick to keep his balance. Sherpa summiters: Lhakpa Dorje, 1960, Sanam, Everest X1, Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1 Chongba Nurbu, 1962, Tate, Chaurikharka, Everest X3
Accidents Cook's cerebral edema
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Explorers
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458654
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Cook M 1945 Australia Leader Sydney, NSW, Australia Financial consultant Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Changba Nurbu (Chhongba Nuru) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Tate, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.