Cho Oyu | 2002 NW side

A UK expedition to Cho Oyu in 2002 via NW side, led by Jason McMillan. Summit reached on 1st October 2002. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4168
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOY02323
Peak ID CHOY
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NW side
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Jason McMillan
Sponsor McMillan Cho Oyu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2002-09-10
Summit Date 2002-10-01
Summit Time 1620
Summit Days 21
Total Days 27
Termination Date 2002-10-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8188
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5750m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
Route Notes * used other expedition's rope above rock band icefall. Started from C2 on Oct 1 at 02:00 hours. Summit at 16:20 hours. His first attempt was on Sept 30. He had to return from below rock band. No oxygen No Sherpa No guides Just all the way to the top (8201m) After quite some acclimatizing, carrying loads and setting up C1 and C2. With a break in the weather I made my first attempt at the summit on the 30 September. Setting off at 5 am from C2, as I didn't have enough equipment to set up a C3, but in the end conditions were still cold from the bad weather and by the time I got to the rock band my feet were frozen and I had to make the decision of either going for the summit or losing some toes, so I turned back. Of course the mountain is a cruel mistress and due to that adventure I have lost all feeling in all my toes. I made a my next attempt the next day on the 1 Sept. This time I set off a 2 am to give me plenty of time. Early on in the expedition going from base camp to intermediate camp I had to do a river crossing and bashed the heal of my foot, I think that I may have damaged some muscles or bruised the bone, so was not able to walk properly on my foot. I also managed to develop a high altitude cough, which I have to say is a cough like no other, at times you fell like you are going to cough your lungs out, and because of the lack of oxygen when you start coughing you have to stop to catch you breath all the time. It also feels like you may pass out at times. Combined with these problems you are fighting the standard problems of the intense cold, fatigue, exhaustion and mucked up appetite that you get, but I was determined that none of it was going to get in the way, but I have to say I was not moving fast on the mountain. I managed to reach the summit solo at 4:20 pm, 14 hours and 20 minutes after heading off. It's a very strange feeling reaching the top; with the lack of oxygen things seem a little dream like especially when you are looking down on these massive clouds floating beneath you. But it felt good. Part of me was amazed to be there, then at the same time it seemed quite surreal. I took some photos, sat down, composed my thoughts and then headed down at about 5:15 pm. The descent was quite arduous due to the exhaustion and fatigue and at one point at the rock band lost my footing on some ice and was almost thrown off the mountain, but luckily managed to arrest my fall with my ice axe. It got in to the evening and dark with my descent and had to use my head torch. Unfortunately due to my coughing it loosened some wires in my torch and I had to remove my gloves to reconnect the wire. It was only for a matter of maybe 5 minutes, but you pay a dear price and I have lost the feeling in all the fingers of my right hand. I am told that within a couple of months I should have full feeling back in my toes and fingers. In the end I got back to C2 at about 11:30 pm, so full summit and return took me abut 21 hours, which is a very long time and a lot longer than most, but I was determined and just but my head down and went for it. That evening, I guess maybe because of dehydration, I woke up during the night choking, it was quite funny as I having a dream about a group of Japanese and the dream seemed to become part of what was happening and in the dream the group were running around trying to find out why I was not able to breathe. In the end I woke up pulling at my clothing, shouting out in Japanese, quite strange. I gave myself some Diamox, tried to stay awake for a bit to make sure that there weren't any side effects. I don't know if it was a HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema), but the next day I got my stuff together and headed down to C1 and I didn't have any more problems. I have to say as tough as it was, it was good and I am glad I did it! I believe that I pushed myself and extended my envelope. There where some amazing views, that make you feel like the world was floating beneath you - and it was all worth it.
Accidents Numb toes and fingers
Achievement -
Agency South Asian Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457881
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw side

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jason James McMillan M 1974 UK Leader Westgate-on-Sea, Kent, England Information technology consultant Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.