Cholatse | 1984 N Face up; S Ridge down

A USA expedition to Cholatse in 1984 via N Face up; S Ridge down, led by Todd Bibler. Summit reached on 5th November 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 993
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOL84301
Peak ID CHOL
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face up; S Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Todd Bibler
Sponsor American Cholatse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach BC at Tsholo Og
Basecamp Date 1984-10-14
Summit Date 1984-11-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1984-11-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6440
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-843-01)
Campsites BC(14/10,4665m),SeveralBivs,Smt(05/11)
Route Notes C1 at Tsho Og Bivouacked on face moving up approx 1000 ft (300m) per day from 29 Oct. N Face climbed alpine-style from 29 Oct. 5th Nov descent via Swiss route (South Ridge) in two days. Cholatse was difficult rock, ice and unconsolidated snow in upper half of face. Very steep face (70 degrees and vertical pillar). Chunk of ice hit Freer on head, smashed her helmet and changed pressure in her head and gave her headache. Would have killed her if not wearing helmet; she was 100 ft from 2nd biv on 70-degree ice face leading to vertical pillar. Also climbed new route on Lobuche East 6119m via E Ridge. Todd Bibler - 6 March 1985 14-23 Oct trekked in area to look at route, visited Everest BC and Kalapattar. 24 Oct to 27 Oct from Cholatse BC climbed Lobuche East. Bibler and Freer went up East Ridge and down SW Ridge while other 2 went up and down SW Ridge. 28 Oct Cholatse climb.
Accidents Chunk of ice hit Freer on head, smashed her helmet, changed pressure in her head, and gave her headache (would have killed her if not wearing helmet); she was 30m from Biv2 on 70 degrees ice face leading to vertical pillar
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451279
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face up; s ridge down

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Todd Douglas Bibler M 1952 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Tent designer Details Other expeditions
Catherine M. Freer F 1949 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine & river guide Details Other expeditions
Reynold Gregory (Renny) Jackson M 1952 USA Climber Teton Village, Wyoming National park ranger Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Sandy) Stewart M 1952 USA Climber Golden, Colorado Photographer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOL84301 AAJ Bibler, Todd - - 59:270 (1985) -
CHOL84301 MM - - - 102:15 (Mar 1985) -
CHOL84301 HIGH - - - 138:8-9 (May 1994) -
CHOL84301 MM - - - 102:16 (Mar 1985) -
CHOL84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527001/Cholatse-North-Face-and-Lubuje-East-East-Ridge - - -