Cholatse | 1983 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Cholatse in 1983 via SE Ridge, led by William Kenneth Dark. Summit reached on 26th April 1983. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1644
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOL83101
Peak ID CHOL
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders William Kenneth Dark
Sponsor British Paranassus 21 Expedition to Cholatse and Tawoche 1983
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-04-07
Summit Date 1983-04-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1983-04-29
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6220m due to avalanching
High Point (m) 6220
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-831-01)
Campsites BC(07/04,4570m),C1(09/04,5640m),xxx(26/04,6220m)
Route Notes Cholatse E Ridge looked too difficult and Tawoche was right there so went for Tawoche first. Went up NE Ridge of Tawoche after 1 week of snow which spent at BC. Carling and Gregory started up 22nd and found it very steep knife-edge ice, ice towers and seracs; hard ice one side, snow and ice other and this avalanched. Needed more personnel or may be ability. Got only to 19,000 ft on this ridge on 22nd. Again snow and all off the mountain and Gregory got pulmonary edema. 24th April Dark, Naylor and Wintrip started to Col for Cholatse bid. 25th started up SE Ridge on Swiss route and fixed rope 270m in technical climbing up rock towers in steps. When to 20,400 ft on 26th and here huge rock tower, retreated to Col where Carling had arrived. 27th Carling and Dark back up and on 28th to 20,400 ft to decide how or whether further progress and 2 snow avalanches came off ridge. These avalanches convinced them to abandon climb and went back down to BC. 2 went back up to clear ropes on 30th. Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 83 Cholatse and Tawoche: [Left BC] 29 April because bad weather. Taboche by NW Ridge and put camp on col between Tawoche NW Ridge and Cholatse SE Ridge. 1 week later same members started up NW Ridge but had to return due to poor snow and avalanche conditions and deteriorating weather. Decided ridge too long and difficulties too continues for expedition our size. We do not have personal or equipment necessary to safely attempt the route. We have abandoned attempt on this route and turned attention to our 2nd objective, Cholatse SE Ridge. Already having camp at base of this ridge so want SE Ridge instead of E Ridge.
Accidents Gregory altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450719
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul Anthony Carling M 1953 UK Climber Barnard Castle, Durham, England Oceanographer Details Other expeditions
William Kenneth Dark M 1959 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Roof tiler Details Other expeditions
Rory Gregory M 1952 UK Climber Tideswell, Derbyshire, England Alpine instructor & physical education teacher Details Other expeditions
Keith Edward Naylor M 1958 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Architectural technician Details Other expeditions
William Thynne Wintrip M 1954 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Electronics technician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOL83101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:243 (1984) -
CHOL83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424304/Asia-Nepal-Cholatse-and-Taweche-Attempts - - -