Cholatse | 1982 S Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Cholatse in 1982 via S Ridge, led by Heidi Luedi. Summit reached on 18th October 1982. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2067
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOL82301
Peak ID CHOL
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Heidi Luedi
Sponsor International Cholatse-Tawache Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-09-25
Summit Date 1982-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1982-11-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6440
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-823-01)
Campsites BC(25/09,4470m),C1(29/09,5070m),C2(06/10,5750m),C3(16/10,6050m),Smt(18,29/10)
Route Notes Cholatse - S Ridge Not an easy mountain but not terribly difficult. Heavy snowfall prevented earlier 2nd ascent, Had then to make route again and re-established C3 (which they had dismantled) at 6200m where US expedition's SE Ridge and S Ridge met. All to Thyangboche after taking down C3 and ropes above Col. Tawoche - N Ridge Returned to C2 on 4th Nov, Alpiger, Zahner and Kancha. On 5th up 100-120m higher over bad ice and much snow. Then on 6th 50m more via a traverse. 7th three members to 5900m (not Zahner); stopped by steep ice and loose snow and back to C2. 8th cleared fixed ropes and climb finished, back to C1. 9th in BC and snowfall. No accidents and frostbite. Above BC: Sonam, Kancha Tamang, Gyaltsen Peter Hackett - 5 Nov 82 Cholatse-Tawoche Hackett met Heidi Luedi at Thyangboche on 2 Nov. After 2 ascents of Cholatse, they are returning to climb Tawoche and expected to complete that climb by end of next week (c12 Nov.). LO not at BC most of climb and not interested in need for expansion of climbing period. Shyam, Tourism - 22 Oct 82 Cholatse, 6440m South Ridge Success 18 Oct at 15:30 hours by Luedi and Kancha Tamang. Started from C3 6100m at 8:30 am; stayed 25 mins, placed Swiss and Nepal flags and photos in foggy weather; reached C3 at 17:00 hours. 2 members are sick, so climbing finished; apparently not to Tawoche. Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82 29 Sept C1 for Cholatse 5070m southeast of peak Heidi Luedi and Francis Tamas made camp All Ok, weather good Luedi - 8 Sept 82 Cholatse first. Same BC for both mountains. BC on east side of Tshola Glacier or there also routes = southeast of Cholatse and northeast of Tawoche 2 here now, 2 more arrive 27 Sept 2 now here leave about 10 or 11 Sept by road and foot; other 2 hope to fly in BC established on 27 or 28 Sept at 4500m-4700m. Cholatse route = South Ridge = new route. Much of South Ridge is rock (to about where SW Ridge joins it) so different climbing problem from SW Ridge route. Thinks SW Ridge should not have been so extremely difficult. Were not acclimatized and not fully equipped for ice. C1 in a saddle but Cholatse and Tawoche and also will serve both climbs if permit is given for North Ridge of Tawoche. C1 = about 5400m. Probably need a C2 for Cholatse when get to ice; altitude don't know, this highest camp. Cholatse summit about 15-20 Oct - late 2 members might be able to join this climb. Tawoche will also need a C2 perhaps in saddle between NW Summit (Pt 6367) and main summit (6542) at perhaps 6100m. Tawoche summit last days of Oct. If have to keep route on Tawoche as SE Face/Ridge, may move BC and certainly new C1; C2 don't know where there might be place for it. No Sherpas above BC probably, certainly not above C1. No medical oxygen even. International Cholatse-Tawoche Expedition Tawache - North Ridge Cholatse C2 = highest camp Highest point 5900m
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450528
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Niklaus Alpiger M 1953 Switzerland Climber Naters, Valais, Switzerland Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Heidi Luedi F 1947 Switzerland Leader, Exp Doctor Flawil, St. Gallen, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Francis Tomas M 1948 France Climber Esquieze-Sere, Hautes-Pyrenees, France Home builder Details Other expeditions
Werner Zahner M 1957 Switzerland Climber Rehetobel, Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Dhanjit (Kancha) Tamang M 1954 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOL82301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:231 (1983) -
CHOL82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
CHOL82301 HIGH - - - 138:8-9 (May 1994) -
CHOL82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323102/Asia-Nepal-Cholatse-Ascent-Taboche-Attempt - - -