Chobuje | 1985 SW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Chobuje in 1985 via SW Ridge, led by John Marsden Nankervis. Summit reached on 10th May 1985. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 184
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHOB85101
Peak ID CHOB
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders John Marsden Nankervis
Sponsor Victoria Cook Chobuje Expedition, 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Suinigaun->Beding
Basecamp Date 1985-04-04
Summit Date 1985-05-10
Summit Time 0830
Summit Days 36
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1985-05-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6686
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4400m),C1(01/05,5500m),Biv1(06/05,5730m),Biv2(07/05,5970m),Biv3(08/05,6100m),Biv4(09/05,6340m),Smt(10/05)
Route Notes BC at 1-1/2 hours above Na at junction fo Trakarding and Ripimo Shar Glacier C1 at SW ribs on ridge. Biv at same Biv at same Biv at same (left the one tent here). Keen on alpine-style but expedition will need one high camp. Lower section of climb with rock bands. May have to shift to E Ridge if too much objective danger from SW. Also may attempt a traverse. All 5 members began summit push on 6 May from C1 with one 3 man tent and food for 4 days and came back 7 days later. 9th May made summit attempt but slept in crevasse in sleeping bags and got to top on 10th. In descent stayed in biv at 20,000 ft in bad weather. Back to BC on 13th. Route was a variation of 1884 autumn. Canada-British team had underestimated mountain rock section between 18,500 to 20,000 ft had snow on it and 1000 ft rock and ice arrete above 20,000 ft to top. Baskota, Tourism - 19 May 85 All 5 members reached top at 8:10 am 10 May; started from biv 6300m at 5:30 am and on top in fair weather; 1 hour on top; arrived C4 (6000m) at 4:30 pm; stayed in C4 on 11 May because of snowfall, 12 May to C1 and BC 13 May. Nankervis left fingers and Harris right toes slight frostbite. Planned to leave BC 17 May. Banskota, Tourism - 7 May 85 All 5 members established C1 at 5600m on 1 May.
Accidents None except minor frostbites
Achievement 1st New Zealand ascent
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451466
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Alex Bamford M 1950 New Zealand Climber Wellington, New Zealand National park ranger Details Other expeditions
Kevin John Boekholt M 1960 New Zealand Climber Mt. Cook, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Russell Langley Braddock M 1956 New Zealand Climber Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew Michael (Andy) Harris M 1964 New Zealand Climber Mt. Cook, New Zealand Alpinist Details Other expeditions
John Marsden Nankervis M 1946 New Zealand Leader Wellington, New Zealand Attorney Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHOB85101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:236 (1986) -
CHOB85101 MM - - - 108:10 (Mar 1986) -
CHOB85101 NZAJ Braddock, Russell - Chobuje 38:61-65 (1985) -
CHOB85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/search/solr?all=chobutse&article_publication=both&article_copyright_date=1986&article_article_type=&article_pub_title=&route_name= - - -