Chamar North | 1994 NE Ridge from NE

A UK expedition to Chamar North in 1994 via NE Ridge from NE, led by Robert Brown. Summit reached on 6th November 1994. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1358
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHMN94301
Peak ID CHMN
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge from NE
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Robert Brown
Sponsor British-Nepalese Chamar Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Buri Gandaki->Shar Khola->Dumje->Sharpu Khola
Basecamp Date 1994-10-27
Summit Date 1994-11-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5400m due to route difficulty, lack of gear and time
High Point (m) 5400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/10,3800m),C1(31/10,4450m),C2(04/11,4913m),xxx(06/11,5400m)
Route Notes BC at snout of Sharpu Glacier east of mountain C1 at glacier moraine above 1st icefall C2 at glacier between 2nd and 3rd icefalls High point at foot of NE Ridge. Left Trisuli Bazar 15th, but took long time to BC because of problem of recuiting porters and keeping them moving during [Dasain] holiday period and had to go over 4600m col which many refused to cross. Complicated mountain with numerous ridges and icefalls. Above BC very bad moraine rock rubbish, very difficult to cross. To C2 huge icefall and on glacier below 3rd icefall. Did not make a C3 on NE Ridge because when got to its bottom could see lower part of ridge, which had greatly changed since New Zealanders were there in 1953: 1000-1500 ft steep rock threatened by seracs which were too dangerous or 60 degrees snow and hanging glacier. Did not have time and equipment to tackle this and not enough time left. Very cold at C2 and weather unsettled. Had expected snow slope ridge, but this it was no longer. Mountain cannot be seen from its base and all approaches very difficult. Lots of seracs coming down on south, east and north sides.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454942
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge from ne

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert J. Brown M 1963 UK Leader Preston, Lancashire, England Aeronautical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stephen Callen M 1954 UK Climber Coventry, W Midlands, England Accountant Details Other expeditions
Graham Daly M 1968 UK Climber Oman Engineer Details Other expeditions
William Donald (Don) Davison Jr. M 1947 USA Climber McLean, Virginia Hydro-geologist Details Other expeditions
David Charles Hill M 1962 UK Climber Milford, Derbyshire, England Control engineer Details Other expeditions
John Michael (Rock) Hudson M 1945 UK Climber Radcliffe-on-Trent, Nottingham, England Geologist Details Other expeditions
Sarah Jane Keast F 1969 UK BC Manager Preston, Lancashire, England Secretary Details Other expeditions
Mark Charles McDermott M 1959 UK Climber Muscat, Oman Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
John James (Boz) Morris M 1971 UK Climber Ashby Parva, Leicester, England Unemployed (living with family) Details Other expeditions
Robin Wills M 1961 UK Climber Leyton, London, England Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Alison Wright F 1965 UK Climber Oman Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Ngatemba (Nga Temba) Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Sikli, Jubing, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHMN94301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:250 (1995) -
CHMN94301 HIGH - - - 151:14 (Jun 1995) -
CHMN94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525004/Asia-Nepal-Chamar-Attempt - - -