Chamar North | 1983 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Chamar North in 1983 via NE Ridge, led by Yoshiharu Miyashiro. Summit reached on 23rd May 1983. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1530
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	NE Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Yoshiharu Miyashiro
Sponsor	Nepal and Keio University Joint Himalayan Expedition 1983
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1983-04-24
Summit Date	1983-05-23
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	29
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	5
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
High Point (m)	7000
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	7
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	1
Total Hired	4
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(24/04,4150m),C1(01/05,4900m),C2(05/05,5700m),C3(13/05,6400m),xxx(23/05,7000m)
Route Notes	Carried loads to C4 site 6800m in mid-May and then all down to BC. 20th May attack party of Harada, Akao, Dorje and Mingma Tshering started up from BC to C1. Summit attack scheduled for 24 May, but attack party 22 May reached C3 and found 2 tents broken by heavy snow and gave up plan to make C4 because C3 tent was to be taken to C4. So now decided to make summit attack directly from C3 towards top, reached 7000m and turned back because route long with deep snow returned to C3 and slept there 23 May night. 24 May these 4 plus Iwanaga and 2 Sherpas (also in C3 23rd night) down from C3. At C2 7 men found no tent and one man was there; Ikari also not there. They dug in snow, found one tent where Ikari slept but he was not in it. Weather bad and 7 men down to C1 and to BC on 24th. 25th May Hirao, Miyashiro and 3 Sherpas to C2 and dug in snow. 2 again down to return to Kathmandu while others found 2nd tent and Ikari inside tent but nothing else. Think small avalanches hit Ikari in big tent at midnight and he escaped to small tent only to be crushed there. 4 down also to C1 and 26 May all up again and brought body to BC where Kanai determined death by suffocation. Body to be cremated 29 May. Route not very difficult although same problems with icefall; ridge is very wide and had many avalanches with this spring's heavy snowfall.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2450746
Year	1983
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	ne ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	4092
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Koichi
Last Name	Akao
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Ichikawa, Chiba, Japan
Occupation	Office worker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7000
Summit Date 1	1983-05-23
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2434270
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	koichi akao
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	4093
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Mitsuzo
Last Name	Harada
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan
Occupation	Office worker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7000
Summit Date 1	1983-05-23
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2431283
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mitsuzo harada
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	4094
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Kiyoshi
Last Name	Hirao
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Deputy Leader
Residence	Kashiwa, Chiba, Japan
Occupation	Student of marketing, Keito University
Leader	False
Deputy	True
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2431813
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	kiyoshi hirao
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Deputy

Field	Value
ID	4095
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	06
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Jiro
Last Name	Iwanaga
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	20
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Student of information science, Keio University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2436042
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jiro iwanaga
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	21
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	4096
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	07
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Toshio
Last Name	Kanai
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	27
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2433547
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	toshio kanai
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	4097
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	05
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Koichi
Last Name	Ikari
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	21
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Matsudo, Chiba, Japan
Occupation	Student of marketing, Keito University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1983-05-24
Death Time	0030
Death Type	7
Death Height (m)	5700
Death Class	6
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Avalanche at C2 night of 23/24 May (probably shortly after midnight)
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1962-1983) Died 24 May 1983 on Chamar from avalanche
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2435706
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	koichi ikari
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	21
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	4098
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Yoshiharu
Last Name	Miyashiro
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1944
Calculated Age	38
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Office worker
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2429342
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	yoshiharu miyashiro
Year of Birth	1944
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	28551
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	09
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Mingma Tshering
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7000
Summit Date 1	1983-05-23
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	4
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mingma tshering sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	28552
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Member ID	08
Peak ID	CHMN
Year	1983
Season	1
First Name	Dorje
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7000
Summit Date 1	1983-05-23
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	4
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	dorje sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1983
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Koichi Akao	M	1958	Japan	Climber	Ichikawa, Chiba, Japan	Office worker	Details Other expeditions
Mitsuzo Harada	M	1949	Japan	Climber	Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan	Office worker	Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Hirao	M	1951	Japan	Deputy Leader	Kashiwa, Chiba, Japan	Student of marketing, Keito University	Details Other expeditions
Jiro Iwanaga	M	1962	Japan	Climber	Tokyo, Japan	Student of information science, Keio University	Details Other expeditions
Toshio Kanai	M	1956	Japan	Exp Doctor	Tokyo, Japan	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Koichi Ikari	M	1962	Japan	Climber	Matsudo, Chiba, Japan	Student of marketing, Keito University	Details Other expeditions
Yoshiharu Miyashiro	M	1944	Japan	Leader	Tokyo, Japan	Office worker	Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	2066
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Reference ID	01
Year	1983
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1984
Language	-
Citation	58:246 (1984)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6647
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Reference ID	02
Year	1983
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1984
Language	Japanese w/English summary
Citation	105:200 (1984)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6932
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Reference ID	03
Year	1983
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1984
Language	Japanese
Citation	105:40 (1984)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12672
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHMN83101
Reference ID	04
Year	1983
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424601/Asia-Nepal-Chamar-Attempt-and-Tragedy-Sringi-Himal
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
CHMN83101	AAJ	Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	58:246 (1984)	-
CHMN83101	IWA	-	-	-	105:200 (1984)	-
CHMN83101	IWA	-	-	-	105:40 (1984)	-
CHMN83101	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424601/Asia-Nepal-Chamar-Attempt-and-Tragedy-Sringi-Himal	-	-	-