Chamar North | 1953 NE Ridge from NE

A New Zealand expedition to Chamar North in 1953 via NE Ridge from NE, led by Athol Roberts. Summit reached on 5th June 1953. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2672
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHMN53101
Peak ID CHMN
Year 1953
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge from NE
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Athol Roberts
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1953-06-05
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date 1953-06-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7165
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Ganesh I (GAN1-531-01), Ganesh II (GAN2-531-01) and Lampu (LAMP-531-01)
Campsites BC,C1(4900m),C2(5180m),C3(5800m),C4(6250m),C5(6700m),Smt(05,07/06)
Route Notes Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal" At last we set off from Tumji with 18 well-laden coolies. We had enough food fro the four of us and four Sherpas for five weeks. It was not possible to get onto the glacier at its snout and we had to climb some 3000 ft before dropping down onto the white ice of the glacier on the third day. We eventually established Camp I about half way up the Glacier at 15,000 ft and coolies refused to go beyond this point. The next day we four with the help of our four Sherpas established Camp II. When this camp was well stocked the Sherpas moved ahead and established Camp III at 19,000 feet. Eventually Camp IV took shape and then CV at 22,000 ft. The Sherpas carried up this last camp and established Bishop, Sherpa Namgyal and me on a small flat part of the great summit ridge. We enjoyed little that night because of the wind and we were also feeling the effects of the altitude. Next morning we set out towards summit wearing crampons. We moved very slowly as we marvelled at the view which seemed endless, but after about 500 feet I became ill and went back towards the tent. Bishop and Namgyl went on. Two and half more hours of plugging with shorter spells of step cutting brought them to the top of a huge ice bulge, only to find that the real summit was further along and much flatter by heavily corniced ice arete. In the meantime Gardner and McCallum with Nima were moving up to Camp V in support, and if possible for their attempt on the peak the following day. Fortunately the wind had lessened in intensity and Bishop and Namgyl made steady progress to within 100 yards of the summit. Here the ice formed three or four giant waves and it took some three hours to pass them. There were several other steps in the ridge which gave trouble but Bishop was at last rewarded when on looking over a difficult step he saw an unbroken snow slope to the summit which he and Namgyl reached at 2 pm. There was a cold misty wind on top and the two climbers did not delay long. Two photographs were taken and the descent was commenced. Despite the cold Bishop could not suppress his elation at climbing his first Himalayan peak and at the knowledge that the party had attained an objective. Peak 23,513 was no longer unclimbed. It has subsequently been named Chamar. However it was now the turn of the rest of the party, and on the morning of the 7th June four climbers left their tents at Camp V for the second attempt on our new peak Chamar. Bishop and Namgyl bade farewell and good climbing to the two ropes made up of Gardner and the Sherpa Nima on one and McCallum and I on the other. It was not long before the effects of dysentery combined with oncoming illness made it impossible for me to continue and a return was made to Camp V. McCallum joined the other rope and the ascent continued. Shortly after the party had their first view of the summit, the steps made by Bishop the previous day were seen and it was not long before they were being put to excellent use. The three climbers no doubt mentally thanked the two men who had been there before them. A fierce wind was screaming across the slopes and this slowed up their progress. At last the summit was reached. A few sweets were eaten and the descent began. By then a thick mist had settled on the summit and flurries of snow increased in intensity. By the time they reached the steps they were completely filled. Nima, did a splendid job of finding the obliterated stops but unfortunately he had removed his goggles and when Camp V was reached he was complaining of sore eyes. At Camp V the effects of altitude were such that hot drinks were sufficient for their needs. Next morning Nima was snow-blind. The party set out in thick mist for CIV with the route finding problem on their hands because the snow had now wiped out all trace of tracks. Gardner and McCallum looked after Nima. Because steps had to be cut in the hard snow lying underneath the powder snow, and because Nima's feet had to be guided into these steps by McCallum it took an hour for them to descend the first hundred feet. From Camp IV the remainder of the party set off to give aid to the three who were on their way down. The former had been caught in a soft snow avalanche and had come out of it unscathed although two ice-axes were lost. The Camp IV party were some distance below and near where the avalanche must have started McCallum found one of the ice-axes. It seemed ages before the groups met. McCallum and Gardner were having a difficult time with Nima as they were both carrying heavy packs having left Nima with only a sleeping bag and air mattress to carry and having to clear away nearly a foot of powdered snow before each step could be cut. Willing hands relieved the summit party of their packs as soon as both parties met and the descent was continued down a well marked trail to Camp IV. It had taken seven hours for the 1500 foot descent between the two camps. Next morning, 9 June we took stock and result was not particularly encouraging. Nima was still completely snow blind. Sarki, the youngest Sherpa was blind in one eye; and I was weak from illness. To add to the difficulties, the monsoon had hit us. A start for Camp III was made in clear conditions but it was not long before the monsoon cloud had closed down about us. Progress was very slow in the soft snow avalanche. At last Camp III came into sight through the thick cloud. It was a sorry sight. The covered snow and crevasses had opened all round it. This stage of the journey from Camp IV to Camp III took six hours although it normally could have been done in one hour. June the 10th was our last day on the mountain. It turned out a lovely fine day and our spirits rose with the sun. Nima was now able to see out of one one and this load again and this load again and this was a great help to the rest of us. We were amazed how much the large crevasses had opened up between Camp III and CII and at times it seemed that we must be cut off from the lower part of the glacier. However we threaded our way through them and negotiated safely the frail looking snow bridges which had to be crossed to reach the lower sides of the crevasses. At last we reached the flat part of the glacier and it was not long before we were at C2, at an altitude of 17,000 ft. It was pleasant after our rather gruelling days at the higher camps. Our appetites returned and we were again able to really enjoy food. That night as we settled down in Camp II the party felt satisfied that the plans which had been made in Wellington months before had borne fruit. We had climbed a Himalayan Peak. We had done that which we had come to do and we could now return without misgivings or disappointment. It had been a grand and impressive experience. Space does not permit me to tell you of the exploration and our trip out hampered with rising rivers and detested leeches. However we achieved our ambition: we have climbed in the Himalaya.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route True
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID GAN153101
Checksum 2439772
Year 1953
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge from ne

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Athol Renouf Roberts M 1911 New Zealand Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Maurice G. Bishop M - New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Graham J. McCallum M - New Zealand Climber New Zealand Physicist Details Other expeditions
Namgyal Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Philip C. Gardner M - New Zealand Climber New Zealand - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.