Chamar North | 2000 NE Face

A UK expedition to Chamar North in 2000 via NE Face, led by Anthony Barton. Summit reached on 18th October 2000. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3683
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHMN00301
Peak ID CHMN
Year 2000
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Anthony Barton
Sponsor British Chamar Expedition 2000
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Sweden
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2000-10-07
Summit Date 2000-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 13
Termination Date 2000-10-20
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5850m due to falling stone
High Point (m) 5850
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 50
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/10,4200m),ABC(09/10,4800m),C1(12/10,5600m),xxx(18/10,5850m)
Route Notes BC at Shringi Khola ABC at moraine C1 at glacier just before NE Face High point at top of snow cone foot of NE Face couloir. Approached mountain via Buri Gandaki and on 28th had gone half day up Shringi Khola (1 day short of BC); when coming down trail were file of monks with the head lama of monastery 2-3 hours walk up Khola. Lama said the team could not go up valley and must leave it because god lived on West Face of Shringi and if they didn't they would be met by violence. After 3-4 days of chasing him in various villages by LO and sirdar to change his mind and found him unmoved, team abandoned West Face as their objective. Went around to *east side of mountain via Tunje and Sharpu Khola to climb couloir on NE Face to do a different new route. After arriving at C1, took about 6 days to ferry supplies from BC to C1 and in this period weather very warm and couloir had become chute for "incredible" amount of rock and ice. Barton and Wiggans on 18th went to top of a snow cone to get to couloir and were pelted by stones for 20 minutes and retreated. Night of 18-19 Oct Berggren and Riley went up top of snow cone and waited 2 hours finding still some stone falling and then retreated. Even before arriving at C1 when on glacier, cliffs above them sending down stones and seracs as soon as sun hit ropes after 10:00 am. Spent a day in C1 discussing possibility of climbing elsewhere on face but decided no safe place to go and decided on 20th to abandon mountain. Left C1 that day. Left mountain to a lower camp and spent remaining 10 days trekking around in that area. While teams were above ABC, local villagers stole all of ABC and ropes fixed on glacier ($5000 worth of goods stolen). In BC, team decided never to come back to Nepal if HMG doesn't refund their peak fee. Permit should not be given for west side of Shringi, but Barton says he will probably come back to Ganesh. "I like Nepal" - "Incredibly frustrating" adventure. * Lama had no objection to their climbing its east side because he thought that was a different mountain. 13 Dec 2000 - Tourism Ministry official said ministry had received letter from expedition asking for refund of peak fee and letter is in process of being considered, but expedition did go to different route and do some climbing on their permit, so unlikely to get refund.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457121
Year 2000
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Allott M 1955 UK Climber Glasgow, Scotland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Peter Berggren M 1973 Sweden Climber Umega, Sweden Salesman of tele-communications devices Details Other expeditions
Anthony T. (Tony) Barton M 1967 UK Leader Fort William, Inverness, Scotland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Tim Riley M 1975 UK Climber Bristol, Avon, England Architectural technician Details Other expeditions
Tom Wiggans M 1974 UK Climber Kendal, Cumbria, England Music sound engineer Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHMN00301 HIGH - - - 226:65 (Sep 2001) -