Chaw Peak | 2012 NW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Chaw Peak in 2012 via NW Ridge, led by John Nankervis. Summit reached on 2nd November 2012. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7857
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAW12301
Peak ID CHAW
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders John Nankervis
Sponsor New Zealand Yangma 2012 Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Taplejung->Tima->Yangma->Yangma Khola
Basecamp Date 2012-10-20
Summit Date 2012-11-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2012-11-04
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to lateness of the day
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Syaokang (SYKG-123-01)
Campsites BC(20/10,4400m),C1(29/10,5100m),C2(30/10,5500m),C3(31/10,5700m),xxx(02/11,6000m)
Route Notes Syaokang (5960m) 24 Oct: the team did a reconnaissance of the Ice Fall of the East Face from C2, finding two possible routes. 25 Oct: entire team started from C2 for summit at 7 am; at 5500m John Nankervis having AMS had to abandon and came back to C2; the other 5 members summited at 3:30 pm and went back to C2 at 7 pm. The mountain altitude measured by two members of the team are: 6070m and 6036m, for 5960m officially (Ministry) [and 5929m on HMG-Finn map]. The team believes they did the first ascent of the North Peak of Syaokang (which summit area would include 2 other peaks) 26 Oct: entire team was back to the BC. Chaw (6404m) John Nankervis stayed at the same BC to recover from his AMS, so did not climb on Chaw at all. 29 Oct: the team established C1 at 5100m. 30 Oct: the team established C2 at 5500m. 31 Oct: the team established C3 at 5700m. 01 Nov: the team couldn't find a way through the icefall preceding Yangma La (5720m) and went back to the C3. 02 Nov: the team started again at 8 am from C3. Nick Shearer went back this day to the base camp, stopping at the bergschrund of the Icefall. The 4 remaining members found a way through the 25m icefall, reached Yangma La (5720m) then came up to 6000m on the NW Ridge of Chaw (1 pm), where they decided to turn back. Knowing that they wouldn't have enough time for the return march, the team knew at this moment that the expedition was finished. They all went back to C2 the same day at 6 pm. 03 Nov: entire team was back at the BC and day after left for Taplejung.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt of Chaw Peak
Agency Dream Himalaya Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID SYKG12301
Checksum 2461531
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Hugh Carswell Cocks M 1952 New Zealand Climber Dunedin, New Zealand Environmental engineer Details Other expeditions
Martin David Hunter M 1963 New Zealand Climber Auckland, New Zealand Attorney Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Nicolas Charles Lamarche M 1961 New Zealand Climber Wellington, New Zealand Scientist (geology researcher) Details Other expeditions
Paul Hiram Maxim M 1962 New Zealand Climber Wellington, New Zealand Builder Details Other expeditions
John Marsden Nankervis M 1946 New Zealand Leader Wellington, New Zealand Attorney Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Thorton (Nick) Shearer M 1959 New Zealand Climber Oamaru, New Zealand Dentist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.