Changla | 2010 SW Face-N Ridge

A Japan expedition to Changla in 2010 via SW Face-N Ridge, led by Hirofumi Kobayashi. Summit reached on 27th September 2010. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6832
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAN10301
Peak ID CHAN
Year 2010
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hirofumi Kobayashi
Sponsor Doshisha University Western Nepal Expedition to Changla
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Bus to Simikot & beyond to roadhead, then trek up Chuwa Khola
Basecamp Date 2010-09-06
Summit Date 2010-09-27
Summit Time 1140
Summit Days 21
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2010-10-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6563
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6090m),Smt(27/09)
Route Notes BC on Chuwa Khola C1 on North Ridge C2 on Col in ridge. Changla is in northwest Nepal, northeast of Mt. Saipal on the border with Tibet. The team took a bus to Simikot and not far beyond, to the end of the road, then trekked along the Chuwa Khola east to Damjam and followed the river as it turned north to the border. The base camp was pitched beside the small river. Next, they made a reconnaissance to find a good climbing route, and they had a temporary C1 at 5000m where they stayed for four or five days while they observed the SW Face. Their decision was to get onto the North Ridge, which delineates the border, from the SW Face of this ridge (the face is on Tibetan side of the border). Their temporary camp was actually at the bottom of this face. They returned to BC on 14 Sept. A period of rain and snow kept them in camp until the 21st, when they returned to the camp and climbed higher and pitched a permanent C1 at 5500m on the ridge. On the 22nd they started to make the route along the ridge on mixed rock and ice. They finally established C2 on the 26th at a col on the ridge at 6090m. The following day, 27 September, the four members attacked the summit from C2. They left the camp at 4:00 am on "a beautiful day - no wind, no clouds." They gained the top at 11:40 am after having surmounted a 300m high icefall just above C2 (from 6100m to 6400m, where they fixed the only rope on the route). They got back to C2 at 11:30 pm. Their return was very slow because they decided they should descend via the long fluted North Ridge into Tibet and down to the glacier at the foot of the ridge. They walked along the glacier and then up onto the ridge to C2. On the 28th, Nakatsukasa and Shibayama descended to C1 while the Kobayashi and Yamaguchi packed up their high camp and joined their teammates in BC on the 29th. They left BC on 2 October, trekked to Simikot, flew to Surkhet, and took a bus to Kathmandu, which they reached on the 6th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460762
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-n ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hirofumi Kobayashi M 1988 Japan Leader Osaka, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Seiya Nakasukasa M 1989 Japan Climber Takarazuka, Hyogo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Yuta Shibayama M 1989 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Naoki Yamaguchi M 1989 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Student Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAN10301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 85:312-313 (2011) -
CHAN10301 JAC Kobayashi, H. The First Ascent of Changla 6563m, West Nepal - 106:29-37 (2011) -
CHAN10301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201131202/Changla-6563m-Southwest-Face-of-North-Northwest-Ridge-then-North-Face - - -